Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey 1996
Page Views: 2,002 total · 15/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Oct 22, 2007
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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When approaching the Visions Wall, the most dramatic arete of this cliff juts out overhead, extending above the tree tops. The route is primarily a sport climb but has some crucial gear between the 4th and 5th bolts.

Start the route by crimping past 4 bolts to a good rest (5.10). The first part of the route is just steep enough to be interesting but the overhanging fun begins after placing a #2 and 3 camalot in the right leaning, juggy crack. Take your time to place good gear as a fall from just below the next bolt could result in a deck fall without the gear. After placing your pieces and grabbing a rest in the "pod", launch up the arete and face just to the right. Around the 8th bolt, either stay on the arete for the full value 5.12 version or climb about 3 feet to the right for the 11d. At the last bolt, move back left as the arete ends at an 18" ledge with a three bolt anchor. This route really shines after the gear placements where you will encounter an unrelenting, overhanging wall with featured rock and mostly positive holds.


Vision of Impalement is located on the right side of the main arete, which is the first formation you will come across as the trail hits the crag.


11 bolts with a #2 and #3 camalot or equivalent. 3 bolt anchor.


This one's a personal favoite. It oly has one section of gear, though, so I call the style "T-Rad".

...and don't forget its shorter neighbor on the left side of this prow, called "Smack Daddy", 5.11d-ish. Dec 2, 2007
Truckee, CA
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
The book calls this R-rated I recall, not so if you bring the gear suggested. If you don't, expect a big runout on relatively easy ground. Probably the best mid-grade route at the Aretes, and real stout for .11d. Jun 2, 2013