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Areas in Land of the Lost

Bigfoot Mating Grotto 2 / 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
El Crap 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Far Out Wall 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Fire Wall, The 1 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Glory Hole, The 4 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Graveyard, The 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Hosswatch 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lacerator, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Midway Rock 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Mr. T Wall 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Pinch Me Wall 2 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Snag Crag 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Sunset Spire 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Three Amigos Wall 3 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Treasure Wall 0 / 7 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Tropics Wall 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Elevation: 4,317 ft
GPS: 40.855, -123.713 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,870 total · 676/month
Shared By: Lurker on Jul 12, 2014
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Land Of The Lost is a cluster of quality quartzite crags hidden off the gullies and ridges of Horse Mountain. This is the closest sport climbing to the Arcata/Eureka area and consists primarily of shorter (40'-60' tall), well-bolted routes, with a handful of excellent trad lines interspersed. Check out the Pinch Me Wall for a plethora of moderates, or the Tropics/Three Amigos for the 5.11/5.12 crowd.

The season is typically spring to fall, as the area receives snow in the winter. There is a gate off of Titlow Hill Road that often stays closed until early summer, to protect trees in the area from the spread of Port Orford Cedar root rot disease. You can still climb at LOTL when the gate is closed, but it makes the access ~30 minutes longer, as you have to hike the road (instead of driving it).

There is an excellent camp site at the main parking area (Pinch Me Wall, Snag Crag, Tropics Wall, etc.). The entire area is primarily mature forest with expansive views of the Trinity Alps, and is absolutely beautiful.

Getting There

Heading east on Highway 299 from Arcata, take a right on Titlow Hill Road. Follow Titlow Hill for ~10 minutes until you reach the Horse Mountain Botanical Area. The access road is on your left, and has a seasonal US Forest Service gate that is often closed until early summer. Head down the road for ~1.1 miles, until you reach a couple of settling ponds/pools on your right. If you take the next right (4WD/high clearance road), it is ~0.7 miles to the parking for Pinch Me Wall, Snag Crag, Sunset Spire, the upper access for Glory Hole, and some other outlying crags. If you continue down the road for ~5 minutes, the Mr. T will be below the road on your left, and the Glory Hole will be up on the ridge to your right.

109 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Land of the Lost

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
Mommy's Little Monster
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Surprisingly Delightful
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Smokestack Lightning
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Daddy's Little Devil
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Pinch Me I Must Be Dreaming
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
Shooter
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Case Dismissed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Size 11
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Mineshaft
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Zacher Cracker
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Lost Boys
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
If I Slip, Then I'm Slippin
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
The Losers' Club
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Snagger
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
M.I.A.
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mommy's Little Monster Pinch Me Wall
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Surprisingly Delightful Pinch Me Wall
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Smokestack Lightning Sunset Spire
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Daddy's Little Devil Pinch Me Wall
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pinch Me I Must Be Dreaming Pinch Me Wall
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shooter Pinch Me Wall
 13
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Case Dismissed Glory Hole
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Size 11 Bigfoot Mating Grotto
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Mineshaft Glory Hole
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Zacher Cracker Three Amigos Wall
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Lost Boys Three Amigos Wall
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
If I Slip, Then I'm Slippin Treasure Wall
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Losers' Club Three Amigos Wall
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Snagger Snag Crag
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
M.I.A. Three Amigos Wall
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Land of the Lost »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Kibble  
Really good directions, although I would like to note one thing... "the settling ponds/pools on your left" are not actually on your left, they will be on your right! That threw me for a bit of a loop when I first arrived. Aug 8, 2015
For people's first time here, it can be a bit overwhelming with so many walls and so many routes that most people just get stuck on Pinch Me Wall. So to list a few suggested itineraries:

5.6 Day: Stop off at Hosswatch Pinnacle on the way in and climb Bolt Action Repeater. Then down to Pinch Me wall for Easily Amused. Next, off to the Far Out wall for the two 5.6s there. Finish the day on the far left route on Sunset Spire and top rope the 5.7 from there.

5.7-5.8 Day:
Climb all the easier routes on Pinch Me Wall, then move over to climb Hairy Palms (5.8) on Bigfoot Mating Grotto. Finish the day with climbing Hell If I Know on Sunset Spire as the sun sets. You can top rope the 5.9 on Sunset Spire from the same anchors.

5.9 Day:
Warm up on the Pinch Me Wall's 5.8s, then climb Daddy's Little Devil (5.9). Head over to Midway Rock and climb "Dad" (5.10a with a short crux). From the Dad anchors you can TR Massif Groove 10c. Finish the day on Smokestack Lightning (5.9) and Fire It Up (5.9) on Sunset Spire.

5.10 Day:
Option 1. Choose any variety of 5.10s as you move on down through Snag Crag, Pinch Me Wall, Bigfoot Mating Grotto, Midway Rock, and then Far Out Wall. At least fifteen 5.10s along this path.
Option 2. Hike down the ridge to the Tropics wall, warm up on Grow a Pear (5.8), then do Hotbox and Forbidden Fruit (10b). Then go to Three Amigos and do Amnesia (10a/b). Climb Nevermind the Bollocks on the backside of Hosswatch by headlamp on your drive out.

5.11 Day:
Option 1. Warm up on Pinch Me Wall then climb Size 11 on Bigfoot Mating Grotto. Then head straight to the Treasure wall. Climb all of the routes at Treasure Wall. (Requires some easy bushwacking, head towards the north side of the creek after Midway Rock, hike the ridge back to your car)
Option 2. Warm up on Sunset Spire and head down to Glory Hole or Tropics/Three Amigos.

5.12 Day
Option 1. Warm up at Pinch Me Wall or the Snag Crag 5.10s. Climb Snagger (5.12c) and then Size 12 on Bigfoot Mating Grotto (short 5.12c crux). Then hike over to The Far Out Wall and climb Land Before Time (short 5.12a crux).
Option 2. Hike down to the Three Amigos and climb Looser's Club (5.12-), Limelight (12c), and M.I.A. (12d)

5.13 Day
Climb the 5.12c and 5.12d on the Mr. T Wall. Drive around a few more turns and hike UP to The Three Amigos and climb and the new arĂȘte variation right of Looser's Club.

5.14 Day
Be the first person to climb Death Of A Bull Dog (5.14+) on the Mr. T Wall. Aug 17, 2015
Evan Wisheropp and I located an alternate approach to the lower sector (3 amigos, tropics, el crap) that took us 15 minutes straight up hill with heavy packs. On the main fire road, instead of taking the right turn up hill to the sunset spire parking, continue straight as for mr. T wall. Go past Mr. T until you see an obvious roadside stone cairn. There is only space to squeeze 1 vehicle here, but there is a turnaround and additional parking available at a clearing < 5 min farther down the road.

At the cairn, you will be standing atop a large CMP culvert that is fed by the drainage containing the lower sector walls. Carefully rock-hop up the creek (everything is very polished and can be super slick) and you will arrive at the lower sector. It is heavily shaded making it very pleasant in the heat of summer, but is likely impassable during wetter months. Aug 16, 2016
Ryder Dschida
McKinleyville, CA
Ryder Dschida   McKinleyville, CA
Watch out for rattlesnakes in the summer months. I almost walked right over this juvenile. Thankfully, it was more observant than I was and made me aware of its presence at about five feet off.

Keep your eyes and ears open!

Aug 21, 2016
Raylon Smith
Santa Barbara, California
Raylon Smith   Santa Barbara, California
Trying to get oriented on some NorCal / Shasta area camping & climbing. The description of LotL says "there is an excellent campsite at the main parking area" but I dont know how to find this. Is it State land, can I reserve camp sites? Is it a KoA? Any leads on specific campgrounds that make day hikes/RWC area climbing doable would be greatly appreciated. Feb 8, 2018
Hey Reylon, the camping at our mountain crags is all National Forest land where you can just pull up your car anywhere and pitch a tent. The coastal crags often require a paid campsite. For LOTL, there are some flat spots near the upper parking. absolutely incredible sunrise and sunset views! Feb 11, 2018

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