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Routes in The Glory Hole

Anonymous Tip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case Dismissed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cherry Picker S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Conspicuous Bulge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dance With The Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Happy Trails S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Henchman, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hibachi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mineshaft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Overhung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spooky Hollow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tootsie Pop S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wayback Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 115 total · 16/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jul 18, 2017
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Mineshaft follows an ever steepening obtuse dehidral with great movement the whole way. Stemming turns weird as you head out right under the dihedral as it steepens into a roof. Tricky right arm stemming and opposition moves are required to exit the roof. Your ability to think in 3D with dictate how long you spend in the roof. Get creative!

After the first roof, there is a good rest followed by a second roof out right. Going left looks easier, but is harder and risks a ledge fall. Go right, straight above your bolt. Stem and a massive jug awaits you above the roof. The route finishes with 40' of moderate climbing.

If you pay attention to the bolt line, and extend certain clips appropriately (12" draws on some, and 24" slings on others), the rope will run nearly perfectly straight with no rope drag. I haven't tested clipping them all with standard draws, but I imagine it would be a nightmare.

Location

Nearest route to the trunk of the live tree.

Protection

11 clips, three are fixed draws now. The two bolts just after the first two fixed draws must be clipped with a sling.
Double chain anchor, clip the correct chains that equalize for this route.

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