Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 1,105 total · 14/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jul 18, 2017
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This thing is weird! Don’t expect any semblance of “normal” climbing.

Stemming turns weird as the slab dihedral steepens into a roof dihedral. Tricky right arm stemming and pushing moves are required to exit the roof. Your ability to think in 3D with dictate how long you spend in the roof. Get creative!

After the first roof, there is a good rest followed by a second roof out right. Going left looks easier, but is harder and risks a ledge fall. Go right, straight above your bolt. Stem and a massive jug awaits you above the roof. The route finishes with 40' of moderate climbing.

If you pay attention to the bolt line, and extend certain clips appropriately (12" draws on some, and 24" slings on others), the rope will run nearly perfectly straight with no rope drag. I haven't tested clipping them all with standard draws, but I imagine it would be a nightmare.

Location Suggest change

Nearest route to the trunk of the live tree.

Protection Suggest change

11 clips, three are fixed draws now. The two bolts just after the first two fixed draws must be clipped with a sling.
Double chain anchor, clip the correct chains that equalize for this route.

Photos

loading