Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 812 total · 15/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jul 18, 2017
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

This thing is weird! Don’t expect any semblance of “normal” climbing.

Stemming turns weird as the slab dihedral steepens into a roof dihedral. Tricky right arm stemming and pushing moves are required to exit the roof. Your ability to think in 3D with dictate how long you spend in the roof. Get creative!

After the first roof, there is a good rest followed by a second roof out right. Going left looks easier, but is harder and risks a ledge fall. Go right, straight above your bolt. Stem and a massive jug awaits you above the roof. The route finishes with 40' of moderate climbing.

If you pay attention to the bolt line, and extend certain clips appropriately (12" draws on some, and 24" slings on others), the rope will run nearly perfectly straight with no rope drag. I haven't tested clipping them all with standard draws, but I imagine it would be a nightmare.

Location

Nearest route to the trunk of the live tree.

Protection

11 clips, three are fixed draws now. The two bolts just after the first two fixed draws must be clipped with a sling.
Double chain anchor, clip the correct chains that equalize for this route.

Photos