| Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| GPS: | 41.6064, -124.10471 |
| FA: | Matthias Holladay, Richard Ludwig,Tim Wilhelmi |
| Page Views: | 5,733 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Matthias Holladay on Nov 26, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Amazing climb that some say is the best 12b/c on the North Coast.
Descending/Cleaning:
Numerous people have been by hurt cleaning on the way down and smashing into the wall behind after cleaning the last draw. The wall is steeper than you think, and it will hurt more than you think. These tips will prevent you from needing to leave bail gear. Do not leave quicklinks! They will fuse shut quickly in the salty air, and are a pain to clean up after people.
1) Top rope to clean. Don't fall after unclipping or you won't get back to the wall. If you can't ascend the rope, someone will need to re-lead the route.
2) Lower-off, cleaning the draws. Go direct to the second bolt with a locker, and pull the rope. Rappel straight through the fat rounded glue-in. Don't lower. Only thread just enough rope to get down to minimize wear.
3) If you have a 70m rope, thread the anchors with the bight method and leave yourself a 20' tail on your knot that's lockered to your belay loop. Double check yourself! Clean on the draws on the way down. At the second bolt, thread the tail through the bolt and do a lower-out. If the belayer holds tight (doesn't lower) during your lower-out you can lower out by hand. There is no knot in the end of the tail, and will feed right through the bolt afterwards..



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