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Routes in Main Wall

Blackbeard's Tears T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Great White S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Humboldt Current S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost At Sea S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mermaid, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poseidon's Fury S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pulling Teeth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Redwood Burl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ride The Woody S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scared Straight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Scurvy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shipwreck (aka Shitwreck) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrapnel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Matthias Holladay, Richard Ludwig,Tim Wilhelmi
Page Views: 2,357 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Amazing climb that some say is the best 12b/c on the North Coast. It made the R&I Tick List a while back...

Location [Suggest Change]

Left of Redwood Burl. Climb left, then up amazing pockets.

Protection [Suggest Change]

bolts

Photos

Lurker
Verdi, NV
  5.12b
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
  5.12b
New titanium glue-in bolts thanks to the ASCA. Hard work courtesy of Taylor, Dennis, and Tom. Oct 27, 2014
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Thanks to you all for taking care of those old bolts on those climbs. It's good to have good pro.

Were you able to reuse the holes? What a lot of work! Did you scope - bolt any new routes as well? I hope so.

Anyway, you folks who have frequented, climbed, and now improved this special area, and other North Coast nooks, should be commended. Nov 11, 2014
Sic Nabo  
 
Fitness exam! Aside from the boulder problem at the first two bolts, there are zero hard moves on this climb. However, if you lack the endurance, you don't have a chance. Thanks to recent ascents, much of the loose dust and debris has been scrubbed and the route is in prime condition. Excellent training route.

I recommend clipping long slings to the last three bolts on the the ramp before moving onto the overhang. This will save you from rope drag and a great deal of grief at the chains. Thanks to those who rebolted this beauty! Jul 30, 2015

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