Type: Sport, 95 ft (29 m)
GPS: 41.6064, -124.10471
FA: Matthias Holladay, Richard Ludwig,Tim Wilhelmi
Page Views: 5,733 total · 26/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 26, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


55 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Amazing climb that some say is the best 12b/c on the North Coast.

Descending/Cleaning:
Numerous people have been by hurt cleaning on the way down and smashing into the wall behind after cleaning the last draw. The wall is steeper than you think, and it will hurt more than you think. These tips will prevent you from needing to leave bail gear. Do not leave quicklinks! They will fuse shut quickly in the salty air, and are a pain to clean up after people.

1) Top rope to clean. Don't fall after unclipping or you won't get back to the wall. If you can't ascend the rope, someone will need to re-lead the route.

2) Lower-off, cleaning the draws. Go direct to the second bolt with a locker, and pull the rope. Rappel straight through the fat rounded glue-in. Don't lower. Only thread just enough rope to get down to minimize wear.

3) If you have a 70m rope, thread the anchors with the bight method and leave yourself a 20' tail on your knot that's lockered to your belay loop. Double check yourself! Clean on the draws on the way down. At the second bolt, thread the tail through the bolt and do a lower-out. If the belayer holds tight (doesn't lower) during your lower-out you can lower out by hand. There is no knot in the end of the tail, and will feed right through the bolt afterwards..

Location Suggest change

Left of Redwood Burl. Climb left, then up amazing pockets.

Protection Suggest change

bolts

Photos

loading