Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Matthias Holladay, Richard Ludwig,Tim Wilhelmi
Page Views: 2,507 total · 19/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Amazing climb that some say is the best 12b/c on the North Coast. It made the R&I Tick List a while back...

Location

Left of Redwood Burl. Climb left, then up amazing pockets.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Lurker
Truckee, CA
  5.12b
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
  5.12b
New titanium glue-in bolts thanks to the ASCA. Hard work courtesy of Taylor, Dennis, and Tom. Oct 27, 2014
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
  5.12b/c
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
  5.12b/c
Thanks to you all for taking care of those old bolts on those climbs.

What a lot of work! Did you scope / bolt any new routes as well? I hope so.

Anyway, you folks who have frequented, climbed, and now improved this special area, and other North Coast nooks, should be commended. Nov 11, 2014
Sic Nabo  
 
Fitness exam! Aside from the boulder problem at the first two bolts, there are zero hard moves on this climb. However, if you lack the endurance, you don't have a chance. Thanks to recent ascents, much of the loose dust and debris has been scrubbed and the route is in prime condition. Excellent training route.

I recommend clipping long slings to the last three bolts on the the ramp before moving onto the overhang. This will save you from rope drag and a great deal of grief at the chains. Thanks to those who rebolted this beauty! Jul 30, 2015