Elevation: 2,416 ft
GPS: 41.146, -123.199 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,218 total · 183/month
Shared By: Lurker on Nov 19, 2016
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Cecilville Bluffs is the ultimate diamond in the rough. If you're willing to brave the long, winding drive, poison oak, overgrown trails, and sandbagged routes, you'll be rewarded with some of the most beautiful blue, orange, and yellow-streaked limestone this side of the Atlantic. Cecilville currently has approximately 50 routes, with most clocking in at the 5.10-5.13 range. There is lots of potential for new routes here; the Double Overhangs, in particular, may some day host mega-hard routes in the 5.14-5.15 range.

Cecilville faces south/southwest, with fall to spring being the best time to climb here, and summer being far too hot to climb. There is a voluntary falcon nesting closure from February 1st to August 1st on the left-side walls, according to both "Bigfoot Country Climbing" and "Mt. Shasta Area Rock Climbing". However, falcons may change nesting locations, and the above closure may no longer be appropriate. Basically, if you see a falcon nest, or an extremely aggressive/agitated falcon during the nesting season, consider climbing at a different section of the cliffs.

Free camping can be found at numerous spots on Salmon River Rd. A few miles to the west is Matthew's Creek campground and a number of dispersed spots, and approximately 1.25 miles east is a dispersed camping site down by the river (look for a road heading downhill at that distance when driving towards Cecilville). Don't expect any amenities, cell service, gas, etc. anywhere in the vicinity of the crag.

For more information, see "Bigfoot Country Climbing" by Eric Chemello and Paul Humphrey (the original guidebook), or "Mt. Shasta Area Rock Climbing" by Grover Shipman. The latter has a handful of new routes in it, but borrows extremely heavily from the Chemello/Humphrey guide without really improving on it.

Getting There

From the west, take Hwy 299 to Hwy 96, then head east on Salmon River Rd. Expect 3 hours from Arcata. The bluffs will be very obvious on the north/uphill side of the road.

From the east, find the town of Callahan off of Hwy 3. Head west on Forest Route 93/Cecilville Rd. After passing through Cecilville, drive for another ~3.5 miles. Expect 2 hours from I-5. You won't see the bluffs until you pass them.

The access trial is found near the "Jesus Saves Boulder", an obvious 30' tall block of nice limestone right on the road. A larger pullout (4-5 cars) can be found a few hundred meters to the east of the trail.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cecilville Bluffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Tequila Sunrise
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tequila Sunrise Morning Wall
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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Photos

Kyle Sherby
Redding, Ca
Kyle Sherby   Redding, Ca
We loved this spot. Went a few days after a rain and most the routes were dry. The limestone seeps water in the Spring in some areas. The approach is relatively easy if you find the right path. We went up on the left side of the Jesus Saves boulder and found a trail that spit you out under the New Wave Cave. Really great routes that feel harder until you unlock the beta. Apr 24, 2017