Avg: 4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches|
|FA:||Evan Wisheropp and Amanda Morettini|
|Page Views:||538 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Evan Wisheropp on May 6, 2021|
|Admins:||Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
This long and enjoyable route is the longest sport route in NW California; it begins near the lowest point at Cecilville and tops out the highest point on the prow that looms over the summit ridge. The anchors are set high above the ledges to reduce friction while pulling ropes; a PAS won’t be long enough, so you’ll need to clove hitch into the anchor, trad-dad style. The name is because the FA of this route included an extremely elaborate, and successful marriage proposal!
P1. (5.10a) Follow the baseline of the cliff to just left of the giant white rockscar/alcove. After a small roof enjoy steep slab with good scoops. Belay on a large grassy ledge. Extend the anchor 20’ if you plan on top roping (or hammer in two 3/8" bolts in the empty holes I left at the top of the pitch). It is very easy to set a top rope on this pitch by scrambling along this ledge from the left. 85’ 9 bolts.
P2. (5.10a) Wonderful steep slab to a small belay ledge. 75’ 8 bolts.
P3. (4th Class) Walk left on the small grassy ledge. In the spring it’s full of flowers, in the late fall it’s a bit more dead. I would simul or do some creative ropework to avoid belaying it out as a pitch. On the FA, Amanda led this pitch and on the anchor, found a large picture frame hanguing with a fortune cookie's fortune, only it was backwards, and unreadable... yet. Later, her parents told her how I got that fortune cookie by complete luck the day before when I ate with them, she opened the frame and reoriented the paper and it said, "You loose nothing by asking, but could gain something lasting" 45’ 2 bolts.
P4. (5.10a) Another vertical start gives way to a slab with an exciting no-hands traverse left across a good foot rail. It is possible to avoid the no-hands traverse, but it’s harder and puts you farther from your bolts/safety. Trust your feet! The crux is the last 30’ where the wall steepens, but is thankfully featured with great holds. Belay on large grassy ledge. 115’ 12 bolts
P5. (5.10b) Obtuse dihedral to an awesome roof with insane cave huecos. The exposure here is a good deal more than you expected! Belay on a small ledge. On the approach, I told Amanda not to look up at the wall till we reached the base. I told her it was so it wouldn't look intimidating, but really it was because I had hung a portaledge, ice chest, and charcuterie board just left of this anchor; all hidden from view until she topped out the pitch. 70’ 9 bolts
P6. (5.10c) Continue up the slab then clip the bolt above the ledge with a stiffy draw or place a #2 cam instead. Why no bolt? Because on the FA I placed a #2 cam and hid a poem inside the pocket. The poem was titled "Amanda's #2 Poem" and referenced a hilarious early bonding moment for us on our first multi-pitch climb together that involved a #2 (only the reference wasn't about a cam). Now as you finish up the climb, just imagine your favorite song by the Cranberries, "Dreams" is playing and crank on pockets to an epic finish on the summit prow. At the end, you can follow last bolt up and left on some tricky climbing right onto the pointy tip, or you could cheat out right towards some choss, but you'd be a bit runnout and would rob yourself of a cool finish! 60’ 7 bolts.
Descend by making five rappels. Skip the traverse pitch, instead rappel to the large ledge, and walk right to the first pitch anchor to make one more rappel. I'm not sure if a 60m rope will work, maybe.
The start is about 40' left of the large white rock scar at the base of the cliff. It is possible to skip the first pitch by scrambling aross a ledge, but that only robs you of a good pitch. The route can be approached from either direction. If coming from the car, take the left path, then around the last switchback where the trail goes left, instead, go straight towards the base of the Broken Buttress. From the left cliffs, you can just hike down along the base of the wall. Keep going down. From the Warm-Up Wall, you can find a small trail cutting over past the rock scar.