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"The One"

5.10c, Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 6 votes
FA: Evan Wisheropp and Amanda Morettini
California > Northwest Calif… > Cecilville Bluffs > 3. Broken Buttress

Description

This long and enjoyable route is the longest sport route in NW California; it begins near the lowest point at Cecilville and tops out the highest point on the prow that looms over the summit ridge. The anchors are set high above the ledges to reduce friction while pulling ropes; a PAS won’t be long enough, so you’ll need to clove hitch into the anchor, trad-dad style. The name is because the FA of this route included an extremely elaborate, and successful marriage proposal!

P1. (5.10a) Follow the baseline of the cliff to just left of the giant white rockscar/alcove. After a small roof enjoy steep slab with good scoops. Belay on a large grassy ledge. Extend the anchor 20’ if you plan on top roping (or hammer in two 3/8" bolts in the empty holes I left at the top of the pitch). It is very easy to set a top rope on this pitch by scrambling along this ledge from the left.  85’ 9 bolts.

P2. (5.10a) Wonderful steep slab to a small belay ledge.  75’ 8 bolts. 

P3. (4th Class) Walk left on the small grassy ledge. In the spring it’s full of flowers, in the late fall it’s a bit more dead. I would simul or do some creative ropework to avoid belaying it out as a pitch. On the FA, Amanda led this pitch and on the anchor, found a large picture frame hanguing with a fortune cookie's fortune, only it was backwards, and unreadable... yet. Later, her parents told her how I got that fortune cookie by complete luck the day before when I ate with them, she opened the frame and reoriented the paper and it said, "You loose nothing by asking, but could gain something lasting" 45’ 2 bolts.

P4. (5.10a) Another vertical start gives way to a slab with an exciting no-hands traverse left across a good foot rail. It is possible to avoid the no-hands traverse, but it’s harder and puts you farther from your bolts/safety. Trust your feet! The crux is the last 30’ where the wall steepens, but is thankfully featured with great holds. Belay on large grassy ledge. 115’ 12 bolts

P5. (5.10b) Obtuse dihedral to an awesome roof with insane cave huecos. The exposure here is a good deal more than you expected! Belay on a small ledge. On the approach, I told Amanda not to look up at the wall till we reached the base. I told her it was so it wouldn't look intimidating, but really it was because I had hung a portaledge, ice chest, and charcuterie board just left of this anchor; all hidden from view until she topped out the pitch.  70’ 9 bolts

P6. (5.10c) Continue up the slab then clip the bolt above the ledge with a stiffy draw or place a #2 cam instead. Why no bolt? Because on the FA I placed a #2 cam and hid a poem inside the pocket. The poem was titled "Amanda's #2 Poem" and referenced a hilarious early bonding moment for us on our first multi-pitch climb together that involved a #2 (only the reference wasn't about a cam). Now as you finish up the climb, just imagine your favorite song by the Cranberries, "Dreams" is playing and crank on pockets to an epic finish on the summit prow. At the end, you can follow last bolt up and left on some tricky climbing right onto the pointy tip, or you could cheat out right towards some choss, but you'd be a bit runnout and would rob yourself of a cool finish! 60’ 7 bolts.

Descend by making five rappels. Skip the traverse pitch, instead rappel to the large ledge, and walk right to the first pitch anchor to make one more rappel. I'm not sure if a 60m rope will work, maybe.

Location

The start is about 40' left of the large white rock scar at the base of the cliff. It is possible to skip the first pitch by scrambling aross a ledge, but that only robs you of a good pitch. The route can be approached from either direction. If coming from the car, take the left path, then around the last switchback where the trail goes left, instead, go straight towards the base of the Broken Buttress. From the left cliffs, you can just hike down along the base of the wall. Keep going down. From the Warm-Up Wall, you can find a small trail cutting over past the rock scar.

Protection

12 draws. One stiffy draw or 2" cam for the last pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The summit spire, shortly after my successful marriage proposal :D
[Hide Photo] The summit spire, shortly after my successful marriage proposal :D
Amanda pulling through the 5th pitch overhang.
[Hide Photo] Amanda pulling through the 5th pitch overhang.
Start of the route
[Hide Photo] Start of the route
I took this photo before the route was established, so the photo accidentally missed the first pitch. So this photo starts from pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] I took this photo before the route was established, so the photo accidentally missed the first pitch. So this photo starts from pitch 2.
Great summit up there!
[Hide Photo] Great summit up there!
Amanda hanging out at the 4th pitch belay.
[Hide Photo] Amanda hanging out at the 4th pitch belay.
Amanda topping out the wall on the harder, but more fun and safer, left finish.
[Hide Photo] Amanda topping out the wall on the harder, but more fun and safer, left finish.
The final top out on the prow. You can see the portaledge I had secretly stashed there the day before. The piece above her is the #2 cam where I hid her #2 poem.
[Hide Photo] The final top out on the prow. You can see the portaledge I had secretly stashed there the day before. The piece above her is the #2 cam where I hid her #2 poem.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dylan Easterling
Fort Jones, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Overall Super fun hopefully some more traffic will help clean this up feels kinda adventure route like but in a good way.
Pitch 5 would be four stars all by itself anywhere else, but its surrounded by other 3 and four star pitches.
Definitely a great route to get back into shape and work endurance on.
You can rap in 3 raps with an 80m rope going pitch 6 to pitch 4 anchors, pitch 4 to pitch 3 anchors and from the pitch 3 anchors trend left to the ground. After doing it a second time recently I don’t recommend this when it windy got the rope solidly stuck this for a bit
If you’re on the fringe season of it being too hot at Cecilville, highly recommend head up this in the morning and when you’re hot and tired head to the swimming hole down at Matthews Creek. May 30, 2022
J P
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] heh, pitch 3 is stretching the definition of 'pitch', but still - really enjoyable diverse climb.

found a dove's head at the summit where the local falcon had been eating, that was cool.

we did the rap in 4 with a 70m: summit to start of pitch 5; then to start of pitch 4; then to start of pitch 2; then to the ground. Apr 19, 2023
[Hide Comment] What an awesome route!! Thanks to Evan and anyone else who helped establishing this.

Me and my wife moved to California a few months ago and this was our first multi-pitch here. I've done quite some in Switzerland before but my wife hasn't so we were very happy finding this well-bolted sportive multi-pitch.

First pitches are fun and comfortable. Pitch 5 is amazing. Pitch 6 is quite spicy. We neither had a stiffy draw nor a cam. It's okay but you have to get onto the last steep face before you can clip. So you should probably feel pretty comfortable on steeper climbs with good holds or bring additional gear as described in the topo. The end of the pitch felt quite hard. At least if you finish left. Can probably be a bit easier by topping out a bit right at the end.

We did 4 rappels with a 70m rope by going directly to anchor of pitch 4 with not a lot of rope left. For some reason we caught a lot of rope-drag and almost couldn't pull the rope so make sure it's in a good spot while rappelling.

Bring enough water! May 2, 2023
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Axel, your mention of the #2 cam inspired me to update the description to include why there is this one odd, single gear placement. ;) May 2, 2023