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Elevation: 5,128 ft 1,563 m
GPS: 41.3633, -122.69197
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 100,240 total · 809/month
Shared By: Lurk Er on Feb 16, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description Suggest change

The "other" Lover's Leap. Obscure in comparison to its Tahoe sibling, but awesome nonetheless, this Lover's Leap is a limestone plug on the top of a ridgeline, with 360 degree views of the Scott Valley. The rock quality ranges from good, to excellent, to bullet. There are approximately 75 routes currently, with a lot of new route potential at all grades. Another undiscovered gem of northern California.

Lover's Leap can be climbed almost year-round, although spring and fall are typically the best seasons. The crag may get snow in the winter, and summer can be pretty hot. However, routes and walls exist at all aspects, so there is always sun or shade to be found.

Camping is no longer allowed in the parking area. Drive up the access road a little ways (4WD recommended) for some secluded spots, past the US Forest Service property sign.

Getting There Suggest change

From the east, find Gazelle-Callahan Road off of Old Highway 99. Take a left on Masterson Road and follow for ~1 mile. Take a left on Kangaroo Creek Road and follow for ~4 miles. Take a left at a hairpin turn, drive for another mile, and park at the large landing on your left. The main rock formation should have been visible to your left for most of the last mile.

From the parking, head up an older/rougher road for ~10 minutes. A fairly obvious trail leads from the end of the road to the crag along a relatively flat ridgeline. Expect an ~30 minute hike to the first wall.

71 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Lover's Leap (Limestone) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lover's Leap (Limestone)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
● Doesn't Suck
Sport
45 Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
● Squirrel Nose
Sport
45 Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
● 45
Sport
45 Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
● Mini Dihedral
Sport
45 Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
● Finger Bucket
Sport
45 Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● Mr. Anti-Social
Sport
Monica Lewinsky Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
● Gun Show
Sport
45 Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
● Monkey Wrench
Sport
45 Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
● Jug Lord
Sport
Trainwreck Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
● Meant to Be
Sport
Plasma Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
● Werewolves of London
Sport
45 Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
● Groove Tube
Sport
Groove Tube Wall
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
● Monica Lewinsky
Sport
Monica Lewinsky Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
● Chasin' Tail
Sport
45 Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
● Kinship of Fools
Sport
Plasma Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Doesn't Suck 45 Wall
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Squirrel Nose 45 Wall
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● 45 45 Wall
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Mini Dihedral 45 Wall
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Finger Bucket 45 Wall
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Mr. Anti-Social Monica Lewinsky Wall
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Gun Show 45 Wall
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Monkey Wrench 45 Wall
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Jug Lord Trainwreck Wall
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Meant to Be Plasma Wall
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Werewolves of London 45 Wall
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Groove Tube Groove Tube Wall
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Monica Lewinsky Monica Lewinsky Wall
 4
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Chasin' Tail 45 Wall
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Kinship of Fools Plasma Wall
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lover's Leap (Limestone) »

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Photos

Rough topo of some of the different walls. Hope it helps
Rough topo of some of the different walls. Hope…
 2
Lover's Leap from near the end of the gravel access road
Lover's Leap from near the end of the gravel ac…
 3
Invasive dyers woad. Please remove this if you can.
Invasive dyers woad. Please remove this if you…
 0
Yellow line is from the parking area about 1 mile approximately 30-35 minute approach with elevation gain to <br> Red line is to Plasma wall approximately 20 minute hike you take a turn at the saddle and do not hike up the steep hill to the main formation
Yellow line is from the parking area about 1 mi…
 0

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