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Routes in Puff Boulder
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Blowhole S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Capsize S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Clicking Barnacles S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Doggy Style (aka Baby Herc) S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Holladay-Ludwig S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mutiny S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pile Driver S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Sea Legs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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See Otter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slow Spring, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tentacle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wildwood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 41.60645, -124.10501 |
| FA: | Evan Wisheropp |
| Page Views: | 2,365 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Jun 9, 2020 |
| Admins: | Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
DO NOT CLIMB UNTIL YOU READ THE SAFETY/LOGISTICS!!!
The easier grade has attracted lots of inexperienced climbers and unknowingly dangerous choices.
Safety logistics:
- Always lead belay below your first bolt. In this case, that’s down in the pit, not precariously up on the ledge or off to the side of the first bolt. People frequently get pulled off balance there.
- Always top rope belay directly below your anchor. In this case, it is over on the large flat rock, 30’ left.
- The route traverses significantly, so you must follow the climb to clean it. DO NOT attempt to clean the draws on the way down!!
- On traverses, always pull the rope through so the second climber climbs through the draws, not on the free end of the rope! A “free-snake” fall will break your legs on the wall to the left.
- On traverses, sometimes we must “protect the second.” The 5th bolt protects the second/follower. You might feel strong to skip it on lead, but it is there to protect your follower from swinging around the sharp arete if they fall on the crux. Clip it with a sling or long draw to reduce rope drag
- Back clean the last bolt for your follower for extra credit.
While the grade is easier, the climbing requires proper outdoor experience. If the above safety info was unclear, please skip this route, and hit me up for some free safety training. It’s better to ask and be safe, then to get hurt.
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This is a new, direct start to the now non-existant route, "Holladay-Ludwig." This route follows the arete most of the way, climbing left of the bolts. The last 20' links into the original Holladay-Ludwig line, put up by Matthias Holladay and Richard Ludwig in 1986.
The crux is going direct at the fourth bolt with friction slab feet. Test yourself going direct since the bolt is right there above your head and you’re very safe there. One could bail out right to the original Holliday-Ludwig (5.6) line skipping this very safe 5.8 crux, BUT beware if you pull off a hold or fall, the swing would be really really bad (sharp arete = cut rope). Choose safer climbing over easier climbing and go direct, you got this.
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