Elevation: 6,331 ft
GPS: 42.124, -113.671 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 161,687 total · 894/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Dec 20, 2005
Admins: GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle
Access Issue: Due to COVID 19, please be respectful of the residents of Almo. Wear a mask when indoors at places like Rock City or the Visit. (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP Details

Description

This is the largest rock formation in the park at about 300 ft tall. There are a number of good multi-pitch climbs on the rock. This is the first area to be developed at Castle Rocks, and there are about 100 routes on and around this main formation. The majority of the routes are in the 5.7-5.10 range due to the low angle nature of the rock.

The Castle Rocks Sector is not the largest area, however it is the most concentrated. Home to over 125 routes and growing, this sector is the closest and most obvious. Sport routes, trad routes, and multi-pitch routes as long as 300 feet long will be found, as are most of the classics climbs.

A majority of the lines here are sport, while others are mixed. There are a number of pure cracks of great quality, but don't expect to come here for those specifically.

Nearly all routes I can remember have chain anchors. Most routes can be rappelled with one rope, but like the City of Rocks, its best to carry a 70 meter rope, although it is not mandatory.

Approach time is about 5-10 minutes up a well-traveled trail/double track.

Getting There

This formation is obivous from the parking lot and is about a third of a mile west of the parking lot. There are number of well marked trails to access the different areas, so please stay on the trails and buy a guidebook from one of the local shops in Almo. There are currently 2-3 different guidebooks for the area.

134 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 76
Poking Holes in the Firmament
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 63
Little Time
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 203
Big Time
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 78
Fruit Pie
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 116
Zinger
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Castle Keep
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 51
To Have and to Hold
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 75
Between Heaven and Earth
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 109
Red Rib
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 82
Shock and Awe
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 68
Jug-A-Lug
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 67
Crimson Arete
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
Blind Pig
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 82
Twinkie
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 66
Honeymoon in Almo
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Poking Holes in the Firmament W Buttress - South
 76
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Little Time Castle Rock - S Face
 63
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 2 pitches
Big Time Castle Rock - S Face
 203
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
Fruit Pie Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 78
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Zinger Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 116
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Castle Keep Castle Rock - S Face
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
To Have and to Hold Poultry Pillar - Wedd…
 51
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Between Heaven and Earth Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 75
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Red Rib Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 109
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shock and Awe W Buttress - South
 82
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jug-A-Lug Crack House
 68
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Crimson Arete Castle Rock - E Face
 67
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blind Pig Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Twinkie Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 82
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Honeymoon in Almo Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 66
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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