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Routes in Hostess Gully - West Corridor

13b S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Between Heaven and Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Pig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cup Cake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Das Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Earth Muffin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Castleton T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fruit Filling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fruit Pie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get Your Fixe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ho Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon in Almo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Takes Two S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numbshull T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patina Atoll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piece of Cake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Red Rib S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Rock Opera T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Three Bits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twinkie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hannah North, Doug Colwell, 2003
Page Views: 3,623 total · 21/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2004 with updates from David Harnsberger
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This is one of the first routes on the west side gully on Castle Rock. There are 3 pitches with each being ~ 100 ft long. The 3rd pitch leads left to join the 3rd and last fixed anchor on Zinger. A harder variation for the 3rd pitch (Fruit Filling - 5.10c) goes straight up the bare granite face above the 2nd anchor and into a wee crack and leaning corner that require gear.

The first pitch angles up and right through two small roofs. The 2nd pitch is easy face climbing on granite.  The 3rd pitch arcs left from the 2nd anchor to join the 3rd and last anchor on Zinger.

Rap x3 with one 60M rope.

Protection

Draws...

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Dan Mathews
  5.7+
Dan Mathews  
  5.7+
Great climb with great rock. Perhaps the most fun I've had on a 5.7. Did the link up with Zinger (5.8), which made for a long, consistent 5.7-5.8 patina jug haul! Aug 12, 2014
David Harnsberger
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
David Harnsberger   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
If you head left from the 2nd anchor to join the 3rd anchor on Zinger, there's no climbing on this 3 pitch route that's harder than 5.7. Sep 4, 2018

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