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Areas in Castle Rocks

Castle Rock 49 / 61 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 110
Castle Rocks Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
East Sector 49 / 52 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 90
Johnson Creek Trail 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
South Hills 18 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
West Sector / The Sanctuary 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 5,620 ft
GPS: 42.135, -113.67 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 161,556 total, 1,108/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Dec 20, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

Description

Castle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan.

CRSP is a result of cooperation between the state government and non-profit organizations, such as The Access Fund, The Conservation Fund, and Idaho State Parks. Climbing here should be considered fragile. Stick to designated trails, be respectful, and leave no trace.

In addition to excellent routes, Castle Rocks also offers some high quality bouldering. The problems are well-worthy, aesthetic, and fun. Bouldering is somewhat "primitive" so come with an open-mind and a sense of adventure. Boulders can be found around Castle Rocks, Johnny Cash, The Hostess Gully, and Tiny Town.

Castle Rocks is informally broken into zones, for the sake of this site, we'll cover them in the more recognized sectors: Castle Rock, South Hills, East Sector, and the West Sector / The Sanctuary.

With the exception of Lone Peak (Castle Rock), the approaches to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches for popular destinations like Comp Rock, the Taco, Fenceline Rock, Bracksieks Pillar, etc, are between 20-40 minutes from the lower parking lot near the Ranch House. Approaches for Lone Peak, Tiny Town, West Buttress,etc, are 5- 10 minutes from the upper parking lot near the Castle Rock picnic area.

Camping: There is no camping here, Suggestions include the Smokey Mountain Campground which is about 3 miles down the road and includes bathrooms and showers. Also, there are campsites that can be reserved inside of City of Rocks, as well as cabins and B&B's in Almo. Rentals and info can be found at the Almo Outpost.

NEW CAMPING INFO: Follow the link for info on both official campgrounds and 'free' camping in many nearby BLM and Forest Service open space. These images have a lot dense information and are best viewed 'full size'.
BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Getting There

Castle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. There is a $5 user fee for parking for non-Idaho residents. For Idaho residents, parking is free if you have a Idaho State Park Pass on your windshield.

From Boise (Seattle, Portland, etc): Heading east on I-84 from Boise, take exit 216 to Declo. Continue South on highway 77 through Declo and Albion. Once at the Conner Creek Junction, (a T intersection at a stop sign), turn right and go west, continuing through Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

From Pocatello (Jackson, Bozeman, etc): Heading west on I-86, take I-84 south for 4 miles and take Highway 81 to Malta. From Malta turn right and follow Highway 77 going West. Pass through Conner Creek Junction (continue straight), Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

From Salt Lake City: Head North on I-15 until Tremonton. Travel onto I-84 near Tremonton, and head northwest on I-84 towards Twin Falls/Boise. Seventy five miles after Tremonton, take exit 245 and turn left to follow Sublett road heading west into Malta. In Malta, turn left onto Highway 81 for 1/2 mile and then turn right and follow Highway 77 going West. Pass through Conner Creek Junction (continue straight), Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

246 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Time
Sport 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Poking Holes in the Firmament
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Time
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fruit Pie
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zinger
Sport 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eye-Full Tower
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Between Heaven and Earth
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Rib
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shock and Awe
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jug-A-Lug
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimson Arete
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shop and Compare
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Twinkie
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon in Almo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Splitter
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Little Time Castle Rock > Castle Rock - S Face 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 2 pitches
Poking Holes in the Firmament Castle Rock > W Buttress - South 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Big Time Castle Rock > Castle Rock - S Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
Fruit Pie Castle Rock > Hostess Gully - W Corridor 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Zinger Castle Rock > Hostess Gully - W Corridor 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Eye-Full Tower S Hills > Bracksiek's Pillar 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Between Heaven and Earth Castle Rock > Hostess Gully - W Corridor 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Red Rib Castle Rock > Hostess Gully - W Corridor 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shock and Awe Castle Rock > W Buttress - South 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jug-A-Lug Castle Rock > Crack House 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Crimson Arete Castle Rock > Castle Rock - E Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shop and Compare E Sector > Comp Rock > Comp Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Twinkie Castle Rock > Hostess Gully - W Corridor 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Honeymoon in Almo Castle Rock > Hostess Gully - W Corridor 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Splitter E Sector > Comp Rock > Comp Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rocks »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Hey!! does anoyone know if there is a bouldering guidebook available for castle rock or city of rocks?? thanks so much! Mar 11, 2016
Porter George
City of Rocks, Idaho
Porter George   City of Rocks, Idaho
Unless you are willing to drop $150 a night for the Ranch House, City of Rocks is the closest camping. However, the drive isn't really that bad, about 20 minutes from Castle to City. At City of Rocks, Yurts are available for around $50 a night. Sep 6, 2015
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Any camping closer then City of Rocks? Sep 6, 2015
Cam and quickdraw left on Brackseiks Pillar East, Coo Coo Cachoo 5.8 2nd pitch.

I climbed at Castle rocks on the weekend of 7/18/15. First pitch of Coo Coo is all bolts so all gear was retrieved. Brought my second up to the nice ledge at the start of P2, plugged a #6 Trango (hand) clipped it with a draw and pulled the flake.

My second forgot to grab the #6 after I instructed them to unclip it to avoid drag. So right there on the P2 ledge there is a cherry just waiting to be plucked. Orange nail polish as gear marker on cam and draw

Will pay shipping and a finders fee! Jul 23, 2015
Ball
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
Can't tell if Dreez is serious or dripping with sarcasm. Jun 2, 2015
Dreez  
The State is really spiffing the place up. New bathrooms. You can now drive right up to Castle Rock formation (3 minute walk).

Get this, They even have SIGNS that direct you to all the classic climbs as you hike around the trail.

Fantastic! Almost like climbing in Europe.

$5 day use fee but well worth it. Jul 22, 2014
Here are links to the ZONE 1 and 2 guide print offs.

nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…

nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/… Jul 4, 2014
I got the guidebook to Castle Rocks and heard there is a closure there from a few years back, can some local please let me know what areas are affected, thanks. THinking of going this summer. Dec 31, 2012
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
I'm thinking about renting the old ranch house at the entrance to Castle Rocks next summer for a group of friends to spend a week or so climbing at City and Castle Rocks.
Has anyone here rented this place? I would appreciate info from any folks who have stayed there, especially regarding the number of people that it can comfortably accomodate.
Thanks in advance for any comments. Jan 31, 2012
David Stephens
Superior AZ
David Stephens   Superior AZ
PDF Climbing Guides for Castle Rocks Zones 1 and 2

parksandrecreation.idaho.go…

parksandrecreation.idaho.go… Sep 9, 2011

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