Elevation: 6,222 ft
GPS: 42.135, -113.67 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 302,888 total · 1,743/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Dec 20, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP Details

Description

Castle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan.

CRSP is a result of cooperation between the state government and non-profit organizations, such as The Access Fund, The Conservation Fund, and Idaho State Parks. Climbing here should be considered fragile. Stick to designated trails, be respectful, and leave no trace.

In addition to excellent routes, Castle Rocks also offers some high quality bouldering. The problems are well-worthy, aesthetic, and fun. Bouldering is somewhat "primitive" so come with an open-mind and a sense of adventure. Boulders can be found around Castle Rocks, Johnny Cash, The Hostess Gully, and Tiny Town.

Castle Rocks is informally broken into zones, for the sake of this site, we'll cover them in the more recognized sectors: Castle Rock, South Hills, East Sector, and the West Sector / The Sanctuary.

With the exception of Lone Peak (Castle Rock), the approaches to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches for popular destinations like Comp Rock, the Taco, Fenceline Rock, Bracksieks Pillar, etc, are between 20-40 minutes from the lower parking lot near the Ranch House. Approaches for Lone Peak, Tiny Town, West Buttress,etc, are 5- 10 minutes from the upper parking lot near the Castle Rock picnic area.

Camping: There is no camping here, Suggestions include the Smokey Mountain Campground which is about 3 miles down the road and includes bathrooms and showers. Also, there are campsites that can be reserved inside of City of Rocks, as well as cabins and B&B's in Almo. Rentals and info can be found at the Almo Outpost.

NEW CAMPING INFO: Follow the link for info on both official campgrounds and 'free' camping in many nearby BLM and Forest Service open space. These images have a lot dense information and are best viewed 'full size'.

Getting There

Castle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. There is a $5 user fee for parking for non-Idaho residents. For Idaho residents, parking is free if you have a Idaho State Park Pass on your windshield.

From Boise (Seattle, Portland, etc): Heading east on I-84 from Boise, take exit 216 to Declo. Continue South on highway 77 through Declo and Albion. Once at the Conner Creek Junction, (a T intersection at a stop sign), turn right and go west, continuing through Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

From Pocatello (Jackson, Bozeman, etc): Heading west on I-86, take I-84 south for 4 miles and take Highway 81 to Malta. From Malta turn right and follow Highway 77 going West. Pass through Conner Creek Junction (continue straight), Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

From Salt Lake City: Head North on I-15 until Tremonton. Travel onto I-84 near Tremonton, and head northwest on I-84 towards Twin Falls/Boise. Seventy five miles after Tremonton, take exit 245 and turn left to follow Sublett road heading west into Malta. In Malta, turn left onto Highway 81 for 1/2 mile and then turn right and follow Highway 77 going West. Pass through Conner Creek Junction (continue straight), Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

290 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 71
Poking Holes in the Firmament
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 190
Big Time
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 68
Fruit Pie
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
Zinger
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
Eye-Full Tower
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
Between Heaven and Earth
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 95
Red Rib
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 72
Shock and Awe
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 63
Jug-A-Lug
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 60
Crimson Arete
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
Shop and Compare
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 54
Mantle Dynamics
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 68
Twinkie
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 57
Honeymoon in Almo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 44
Splitter
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Poking Holes in the Firmament Castle Rocks > W Buttress - South
 71
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Big Time Castle Rocks > Castle Rock - S Face
 190
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
Fruit Pie Castle Rocks > Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 68
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Zinger Castle Rocks > Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 109
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Eye-Full Tower S Hills > Bracksiek's Pillar
 49
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Between Heaven and Earth Castle Rocks > Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Red Rib Castle Rocks > Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 95
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shock and Awe Castle Rocks > W Buttress - South
 72
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jug-A-Lug Castle Rocks > Crack House
 63
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Crimson Arete Castle Rocks > Castle Rock - E Face
 60
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shop and Compare E Sector > Comp Rock > Comp Wall
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Mantle Dynamics E Sector > Comp Rock > Comp Rock - E Face
 54
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Twinkie Castle Rocks > Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 68
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Honeymoon in Almo Castle Rocks > Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 57
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Splitter E Sector > Comp Rock > Comp Wall
 44
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
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