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Routes in Hostess Gully - West Corridor

13b S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Between Heaven and Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Pig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Das Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Earth Muffin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Castleton T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fruit Filling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fruit Pie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get Your Fixe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ho Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon in Almo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Takes Two S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numbshull T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patina Atoll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piece of Cake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Red Rib S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Rock Opera T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twinkie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Kevin Vowles and Rick Thompson
Page Views: 730 total, 26/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Find a way up to the lone bolt and start of the obvious left trending crack line. The original line starts below the chockstone following a left trending line of good climbing up to the first bolt. Alternatively, some people either start from the top of the chockstone and climb straight up on not so good rock or follow a line of unprotected edges coming in from the left. After clipping the bolt, pull into the crack and follow it's elegant arching line until near the top where you jog up and a little right to the anchors.

Location

Obvious arching crack line left of Red Rib and Numbshull. From the Red Rib staging area, approach either by scrambling to the top of the flake and into the deep gully at the base of the wall and boulder over the chockstone to the start of the roped climbing or use Slab Happy (5.9) as an approach pitch. From the anchors on Slab Happy it is an easy 4th class stroll over the gully at the start of El Castleton. Two rope rappel (or one 70 meter rappel) to the anchors of Slab Happy and then one more rappel to ground.

Protection

One bolt plus gear to 2.5"

Photos

Matt Wenger
Bozeman
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
This should at least have a PG13 rating on the official title. Jul 20, 2017
Norm Larson
Wilson, Wy.
Norm Larson   Wilson, Wy.
When I did this route I started up numbshull and then worked my way over to the crack. I don't remember it being too dicey that way. Made for a nice long pitch that way. Apr 3, 2016
I've only done the route starting from above the chockstone. It's pretty hairy!
Can anyone out there comment on the route starting below the chockstone? Feb 6, 2016
sam murray
5.10a PG13
sam murray  
5.10a PG13
Fun route but the start is rather serious. I traversed in from the left and aimed for the bush below the crack, this is easy but unprotectable and dangerous. The crack is fun and protects well with smaller cams. Oct 28, 2015