Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
El Castleton
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 11
votes
Routes in Hostess Gully - West Corridor
|
13b S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
A Thousand Moons T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Between Heaven and Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Blind Pig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Country Western Ballad S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Cup Cake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Das Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Earth Muffin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
El Castleton T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Fruit Filling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Fruit Pie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Get Your Fixe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Hiding In Plain Sight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Ho Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Honeymoon in Almo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Hot Sticky Bun (P1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
It Takes Two S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Leather and Lice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Numbshull T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
One for Matt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Patina Atoll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Piece of Cake T PG13 |
|
|
Red Rib S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Southern Rock Opera T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Three Bits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Twinkie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Zinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Vowles and Rick Thompson |
| Page Views: | 1,879 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Engle on Aug 18, 2015 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
Find a way up to the lone bolt and start of the obvious left trending crack line. The original line starts below the chockstone following a left trending line of good climbing up to the first bolt. Alternatively, some people either start from the top of the chockstone and climb straight up on not so good rock or follow a line of unprotected edges coming in from the left. After clipping the bolt, pull into the crack and follow it's elegant arching line until near the top where you jog up and a little right to the anchors.
Location
Obvious arching crack line left of Red Rib and Numbshull. From the Red Rib staging area, approach either by scrambling to the top of the flake and into the deep gully at the base of the wall and boulder over the chockstone to the start of the roped climbing or use Slab Happy (5.9) as an approach pitch. From the anchors on Slab Happy it is an easy 4th class stroll over the gully at the start of El Castleton. Two rope rappel (or one 70 meter rappel) to the anchors of Slab Happy and then one more rappel to ground.
4 Comments