Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Kevin Vowles and Rick Thompson
Page Views: 1,789 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Find a way up to the lone bolt and start of the obvious left trending crack line. The original line starts below the chockstone following a left trending line of good climbing up to the first bolt. Alternatively, some people either start from the top of the chockstone and climb straight up on not so good rock or follow a line of unprotected edges coming in from the left. After clipping the bolt, pull into the crack and follow it's elegant arching line until near the top where you jog up and a little right to the anchors.

Location Suggest change

Obvious arching crack line left of Red Rib and Numbshull. From the Red Rib staging area, approach either by scrambling to the top of the flake and into the deep gully at the base of the wall and boulder over the chockstone to the start of the roped climbing or use Slab Happy (5.9) as an approach pitch. From the anchors on Slab Happy it is an easy 4th class stroll over the gully at the start of El Castleton. Two rope rappel (or one 70 meter rappel) to the anchors of Slab Happy and then one more rappel to ground.

Protection Suggest change

One bolt plus gear to 2.5"