Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Nathan Smith and Brian Cabe
Page Views: 4,639 total · 30/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Jul 19, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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62 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

A long sport climb just left of It Takes Two.

Start out with a couple easy slab moves to a small roof/bulge with a bolt. Continue straight up on perfect rock for another 100' to a bolted anchor. Rap with two ropes.

Location

Between Honeymoon in Almo and It Takes Two, this route is the second route from the top of the Hostess Gully.

Protection

17 draws.

Photos

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
FA: Nathan Smith and Brian Cabe. Jan 4, 2007
Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
Great long route. Good rock. Bring long runners. Mar 19, 2007
Tyler Barker
Jackson, WY
 
Tyler Barker   Jackson, WY
 
Good Route and nice views from the top. Just one 5.9 move with a tough clip. Mar 1, 2010
Skiholzer
Hyde Park
  5.9
Skiholzer   Hyde Park
  5.9
Fun route. The only draw back is rope drag. Also, don't be fooled by the route length on here; it is only 110 feet if you use the anchors mid way on It takes two. Otherwise it's all of 210 to the top. Jul 18, 2010
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
you can climb and rappel this route with one rope by rappeling to the mid anchors on the route to the right (It Takes Two). May 20, 2012
ben orton
  5.9
ben orton  
  5.9
15 draws same as red rib 16 if u like to clip the chain bolt before locking off. I ran out slings on the first few bolts but didn't on the most important one the line makes an obvious move left make sure u run out a sling on the bolt before. It can seem a bit scary cuz the move is a bit above the bolt but it will make the rest of your climb much easyer. There is nothing worse than gettin pulled off a balance move when clipping a bolt Jun 2, 2013
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
  5.9
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
  5.9
This is a fun route that should be lead all in one go on from the base/gully to the top. Bring a few shoulder length slings for the bottom to avoid rope drag. Quality 5.9 face climbing. Sep 16, 2013
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.9-
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.9-
What a fun long pitch! I skipped bolts 2 and 3(humongous low angle jugs make this safe to do) and used long runners on nearly every bolt and the drag was manageable but still not great. As said before, the traverse to the left above the roof is a bit scary with a long runner, but it was well worth it once past that move. There are chains about 10m below the top anchors(blind pig anchors?), these will get you down on a single 70m rope. Oct 1, 2013
Dan Mathews
  5.9
Dan Mathews  
  5.9
This is a long pitch. Bring several long slings. Route starts on the left edge of the overhang near the ground. There is a bolt a few feet up, which makes the start obvious. I thought this was the start of Takes Two, but that route starts at the far right of the initial overhang where there is not a bolt. Aug 11, 2014
This was a totally fun route, mostly sustained,after the early part, and deeply satisfying to complete. The opening move is probably the crux, and harder for shorter folks. And the big traverse left, after the little roof was thought-provoking and took some time to see through clearly. Overall, a great way to end a great day of climbing. Oct 3, 2015
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
One of the best pitches at Castle Rocks. Crux to me seems at 3/4 height. Some small pinches and crimps. Chalk up! May 22, 2016
Climbingblues
  5.9
Climbingblues  
  5.9
Great route. Definitely solid at the grade. Oct 26, 2017