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Routes in Hostess Gully - West Corridor

13b S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Between Heaven and Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Pig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Das Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Earth Muffin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Castleton T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fruit Filling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fruit Pie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get Your Fixe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ho Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon in Almo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Takes Two S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numbshull T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patina Atoll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piece of Cake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Red Rib S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Rock Opera T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twinkie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,566 total, 29/month
Shared By: JF1 on Jul 7, 2013
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

An amazing splitter crack on the upper headwall, hard to miss walking up.

Climb the crack, build and anchor then rap a route in the hostess gully or walk off and downclimb into the Crack House.

Location

This is the obvious left to right arching crack that splits the upper headwall above Patina Atoll.
3rd classing up the gully below Numbshall and El Castleton seems a good way to approach.

Protection

Finger sized pieces are important blue tcu size to .5 camalot.
Anchor could be bigger pieces 3 or 4 camalot, or nuts and medium cams in a spot higher with more rope drag.

Photos

Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
A long approach and descent bookend this incredible climb. Heavy on the #0.3s! The climb also take nuts but your second will hate you for it.

Strenuous and sustained with varying crack shapes. Read: a myriad of techniques are required to make the ascent and it's not over until you make the final step on to the ledge.

The first 10-15' are inviting and protect well to get you out of ledge fall zone.

Definitely worth the effort but save it for a cooler day. Apr 19, 2015