Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Bingham
Page Views: 3,697 total · 21/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This route is located to the left of the start of Zinger. The need for some trad gear makes this route interesting. Follow a few bolts and place gear in the thin cracks until you hit an anchor. A fun outing...

Protection

Draws, nuts and a few small cams...

Photos

I jumped on this the other day without knowing about the supplemental gear, made for an exciting lead, still super fun though... Jul 19, 2006
Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Bring 0.5 Camalot or Orange TCU for gear placement. Bolts are well spaced making for exciting lead. Hard start. Mar 19, 2007
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c
Fantastic solid 10c line not to be missed. Wear shoes that edge really well so you can stand on the tiny bumps and this will greatly assist you in the cruxes. Combination of thin edge/crimping and small finger crack cruxes all in the first 30-40 feet of the climb. Sep 7, 2012
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
Second and third pitches go at 10- and can be linked together. Adds to the fun. Sep 29, 2014
Bill Franklin
Boise, ID
  5.10c
Bill Franklin   Boise, ID
  5.10c
Love this route. I placed a finger sized cam with a long runner between bolts 3 and 4 but it wasn't really necessary. Sep 30, 2014
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Another vote for doing all 3 pitches. Stellar! Fantastic climbing the whole way. Mar 7, 2015
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Miraculously good stone. Some strange bolting down low and real unfortunate finsh- it was pushed hard left away from the obvious direct finish and forced to a stop after only 65'...perhaps this was to be in compliance with a 15' between routes rule? It would score a perfect 4 stars if a few bolts were moved to better clipping stances and the 1st pitch's finish were straightened out and extended to a full 30-35m. I think this could have went to the top in just two 30 m pitches. Almost the best five ten in the whole area! Oct 16, 2018