Type: Sport, 195 ft
FA: Gene Kistler and Eddie Begoon 2000.
Page Views: 6,653 total · 43/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 2, 2006 with updates from Brian in SLC
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details


Red Rib is a long, beautiful, single pitch route up the SW ridge of Castle Rock. Great position and good exposure are it's strongest points. The crux is right off the ground but the climbing remains interesting and in the 5.9/10- range for most of the first ~150'. From here, it's an easier romp to the anchors.
This route is a full 60 meter rope length.


The far right side of the Southwest Side of Castle Rock, it heads up the obvious rib just past the left side of the South Face.


All bolts(don't remember the count for this long route but probably in the range of 14-16). Rap anchors at the top. 2-60 meter ropes to rap straight down to the ground.


Zeb Kenyon
Holladay, UT
Zeb Kenyon   Holladay, UT
Beware pulling your rope. I pulled left of the line into the gully and got the rope terribly stuck on Numbshall and had to climb Numbshall in order to free my rope, which turned out to be a good thing. Jul 5, 2006
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Seem to recall rappelling to the climber's right with a single rope, to the rappel anchor on Little Time/Big Time, then off to climber's left after another rappel (or 2?), back into the base area at the start of Red Rib (so, not a long rappel back to the base of Little Time). Easy rope pulls. Aug 22, 2006
Salt Lake City, UT
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
Great route. Exposed slab moves to exciting jug climbing. Must do!!! Mar 19, 2007
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Awesome route! Technical and a bit scary. I love it. Aug 3, 2007
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
One of the best one pitch sport climbs you'll ever do. Jul 14, 2008
Agreed Gary. A must do for sure. May 20, 2010
Holladay, UT
A PS   Holladay, UT
Fantastic route! Thought this was a bit run out as a neophyte leader. For me, the crux was the bear hug section about 2/3 the way up. Great exposure. Aug 5, 2012
ben orton
ben orton  
Awesome climb thinking its a 5.9 I would compare it to scream cheese at city of rocks cool balance moves. Maybe use slings on the first 3 bolts or so might help rope drag Jun 2, 2013
Western Antarctic, New Engl…
GilaShot   Western Antarctic, New Engl…
Solid 10 slab in parts. Rap to the anchors on the route to the right. Aug 8, 2016
Chelsea Wood
Boise, ID
Chelsea Wood   Boise, ID
Good long slabby climb with great views. It's a good experience, but I don't need to go back to experience more slab. Jun 18, 2018
  5.10b PG13
bheller   SL UT
  5.10b PG13
New slab leaders: be prepared for some big runnouts with insecure friction. Not a good intro route. Wear a helmet. 14 spaced bolts. A single 70 m gets you down into the gully immediately right of the start after two seperate rappels (bolted chain anchors on big slopey ledge) over the ribs right edge. Oct 16, 2018