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Routes in Hostess Gully - West Corridor

13b S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Between Heaven and Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Pig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Das Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Earth Muffin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Castleton T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fruit Filling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fruit Pie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get Your Fixe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ho Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon in Almo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Takes Two S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numbshull T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patina Atoll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piece of Cake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Red Rib S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Rock Opera T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twinkie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 195 ft
FA: Gene Kistler and Eddie Begoon 2000.
Page Views: 6,069 total, 43/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 2, 2006 with updates
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Red Rib is a long, beautiful, single pitch route up the SW ridge of Castle Rock. Great position and good exposure are it's strongest points. The crux is right off the ground but the climbing remains interesting and in the 5.9/10- range for most of the first ~150'. From here, it's an easier romp to the anchors.
This route is a full 60 meter rope length.

Location

The far right side of the Southwest Side of Castle Rock, it heads up the obvious rib just past the left side of the South Face.

Protection

All bolts(don't remember the count for this long route but probably in the range of 14-16). Rap anchors at the top. 2-60 meter ropes to rap straight down to the ground.
GilaShot
Western Antarctic, New Engl…
 
GilaShot   Western Antarctic, New Engl…
 
Solid 10 slab in parts. Rap to the anchors on the route to the right. Aug 8, 2016
ben orton
  5.9+
ben orton  
  5.9+
Awesome climb thinking its a 5.9 I would compare it to scream cheese at city of rocks cool balance moves. Maybe use slings on the first 3 bolts or so might help rope drag Jun 2, 2013
Annie Smoot
Holladay, Utah
Annie Smoot   Holladay, Utah
Fantastic route! Thought this was a bit run out as a neophyte leader. For me, the crux was the bear hug section about 2/3 the way up. Great exposure. Aug 5, 2012
Agreed Gary. A must do for sure. May 20, 2010
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
5.10a
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
5.10a
One of the best one pitch sport climbs you'll ever do. Jul 14, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Awesome route! Technical and a bit scary. I love it. Aug 3, 2007
Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great route. Exposed slab moves to exciting jug climbing. Must do!!! Mar 19, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
Seem to recall rappelling to the climber's right with a single rope, to the rappel anchor on Little Time/Big Time, then off to climber's left after another rappel (or 2?), back into the base area at the start of Red Rib (so, not a long rappel back to the base of Little Time). Easy rope pulls. Aug 22, 2006
Zeb Kenyon
Holladay, UT
Zeb Kenyon   Holladay, UT
Beware pulling your rope. I pulled left of the line into the gully and got the rope terribly stuck on Numbshall and had to climb Numbshall in order to free my rope, which turned out to be a good thing. Jul 5, 2006