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Routes in Hostess Gully - West Corridor

13b S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Between Heaven and Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Pig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Das Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Earth Muffin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Castleton T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fruit Filling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fruit Pie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get Your Fixe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ho Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon in Almo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Takes Two S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numbshull T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patina Atoll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piece of Cake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Red Rib S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Rock Opera T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twinkie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Brian Cabe & Nathan Smith
Page Views: 1,177 total, 13/month
Shared By: Skiholzer on Jul 18, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Start on the large boulder for Honeymoon in Almo. The first crux (5.9/10) is pulling over the small roof at the second bolt. The route curves left until a second small roof, then moves back slightly right. A small cam is nice for protecting the roof move since you're 15 feet out from the last bolt; although the move isn't too difficult. Climb the smooth friction face above (5.10a) to a bolt and to the chains. Rope drag can be a bit of a problem. Sporty bolt placements. From the chains a 70 M rope will just make it to the starting boulder (with rope stretch). 60 M will require a little down climbing.

Location

Near the top of the Hostess Gully between "Honeymoon in Almo" and "Between Heaven and Earth".

Protection

Draws and maybe a small cam.

Photos

nmiller
Bozeman, MT
  5.10-
nmiller   Bozeman, MT
  5.10-
super fun climb! the sequency slab moves to the chains were the crux for me, lower bulge felt 5.9.

Note: the topo in the Bingham guide shows starting on the 5.9 to the right (starting on a cone shaped slab). Go 30 more feet up the gully and you'll see the first few bolts going directly up the right edge of the huge sea of varnish. Can be confusing because the 5.9 also pulls a bulge at the second bolt. Jun 22, 2016
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Fun route, more like three stars. Crux is most definitely at the top. Don't be surprised when things go horribly blank. May 22, 2016
Dan Mathews
  5.10a/b
Dan Mathews  
  5.10a/b
The climb has a hard/awkward move at the beginning and a challenging sequence at the end. The middle is a bit easier, but a lot of fun. Aug 11, 2014
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Definitely worth more than the one star it's given in the guidebook.

Didn't find cam or nut placements necessary. Some hunting will reveal secure feet. Way to save the crux for the last 10 feet of the climb! Good, long climb. Jun 7, 2014
boltclippinfool
  5.10a/b
boltclippinfool  
  5.10a/b
Fun route! I thought the crux move over the lower roof is a bit harder than 10a, it's over quick tho. Then, pretty cruiser to the second roof, which has huge holds. I wedged a medium stopper here for peace of mind. Once you turn the final roof you'll encounter a beautiful, seemingly featureless shield of dark stone. Press onwards to find cool edges right where you need them to get you to the chains. Aug 25, 2012
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
FA Brian Cabe and Nathan Smith. Jul 29, 2010