Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Brian Cabe & Nathan Smith
Page Views: 1,319 total · 13/month
Shared By: Skiholzer on Jul 18, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Start on the large boulder for Honeymoon in Almo. The first crux (5.9/10) is pulling over the small roof at the second bolt. The route curves left until a second small roof, then moves back slightly right. A small cam is nice for protecting the roof move since you're 15 feet out from the last bolt; although the move isn't too difficult. Climb the smooth friction face above (5.10a) to a bolt and to the chains. Rope drag can be a bit of a problem. Sporty bolt placements. From the chains a 70 M rope will just make it to the starting boulder (with rope stretch). 60 M will require a little down climbing.

Location

Near the top of the Hostess Gully between "Honeymoon in Almo" and "Between Heaven and Earth".

Protection

Draws and maybe a small cam.

Photos

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
FA Brian Cabe and Nathan Smith. Jul 29, 2010
boltclippinfool
  5.10a/b
boltclippinfool  
  5.10a/b
Fun route! I thought the crux move over the lower roof is a bit harder than 10a, it's over quick tho. Then, pretty cruiser to the second roof, which has huge holds. I wedged a medium stopper here for peace of mind. Once you turn the final roof you'll encounter a beautiful, seemingly featureless shield of dark stone. Press onwards to find cool edges right where you need them to get you to the chains. Aug 25, 2012
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Definitely worth more than the one star it's given in the guidebook.

Didn't find cam or nut placements necessary. Some hunting will reveal secure feet. Way to save the crux for the last 10 feet of the climb! Good, long climb. Jun 7, 2014
Dan Mathews
  5.10a/b
Dan Mathews  
  5.10a/b
The climb has a hard/awkward move at the beginning and a challenging sequence at the end. The middle is a bit easier, but a lot of fun. Aug 11, 2014
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
Fun route, more like three stars. Crux is most definitely at the top. Don't be surprised when things go horribly blank. May 22, 2016
nmiller
Bozeman, MT
  5.10-
nmiller   Bozeman, MT
  5.10-
super fun climb! the sequency slab moves to the chains were the crux for me, lower bulge felt 5.9.

Note: the topo in the Bingham guide shows starting on the 5.9 to the right (starting on a cone shaped slab). Go 30 more feet up the gully and you'll see the first few bolts going directly up the right edge of the huge sea of varnish. Can be confusing because the 5.9 also pulls a bulge at the second bolt. Jun 22, 2016