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Routes in Hostess Gully - West Corridor

13b S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Between Heaven and Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Pig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Das Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Earth Muffin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Castleton T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fruit Filling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fruit Pie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get Your Fixe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ho Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon in Almo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Takes Two S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numbshull T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patina Atoll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piece of Cake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Red Rib S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Rock Opera T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twinkie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Nathan Smith
Page Views: 6,122 total, 37/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

The route is the highest route in the gully on the west side of Castle Rock. Approach from the south side trails. This one is a real gem!!!

Follow a clean plate of patina with very thin edges. Hard mantles, crimping, and high steps lead up and left to a set of anchors. One of the best routes on the west side.

Protection

Draws and maybe a small cam before the first bolt...

Photos

Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
Incredible improbable route! Jun 11, 2017
Wilburn
Cheyenne, WY
  5.11a
Wilburn   Cheyenne, WY
  5.11a
A classic Castle Rocks climb that has the misfortune of not being longer. Very fun edging along 6 or 7 bolts. There are a couple ways to finish, but the most fun is to veer left after the final bolt and avoid the tempting jug rail at the top in order to keep the fun going. Very well bolted and safe falls, especially for slab. Jun 18, 2015
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
@Alec - what's contrived? If you must connect the dots and go from last bolt to anchors then you've got no route finding skills son! Sep 29, 2014
Alec LaLonde
  5.11a
Alec LaLonde  
  5.11a
A fun, improbable route that suffers from a contrived finish. You can pretty much grab the patina jug rail from the last bolt but the route line veers left on slopey bumps.

It's also probably more like 5.13 if you're under 5'4". Sep 15, 2014
Awesome route! It's super-blank looking, but has just enough classic City edges to make it go without any stopper sections. Jun 9, 2014
BryceS
Hyrum Ut
  5.11a
BryceS   Hyrum Ut
  5.11a
Awsome route I thought it was a solid 11a. Great little crimper edges with a little friction. Stays in the shade until 1:00. Fun moves its one I'll climb again. Jul 21, 2010
Travis Willcox
Jackson, WY
  5.11a
Travis Willcox   Jackson, WY
  5.11a
Great, sporty undertaking. It does look like such a smooth improbable face, but the thin edges make for a great sequence of balancy/reachy/fun moves - adds some flavor to the great smearing and patina dishes found on most of the face routes in the area. Jun 30, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
Stellar route. From below the face looks so blank and improbable but once you get up there and commit to the tiny edges, it goes. Great stuff Nathan. Sep 7, 2008
David Tvedt
  5.10d
David Tvedt  
  5.10d
Very good route with excellent rock. My 10d rating is based on my height (6'). We watched a 5'4" climber barely be able to reach the key crimp holds on this route and it was definitely harder for him. He thought it was easily 11a. To my spouse(5'10") and I, it seemed a little bit easier than Milk Toast(North Wall) given 10d(felt 11a) and to us it felt in the 10d range. The thin, crisp edges on this route gave it a more secure feeling than the sketchy holds at the start of Milk Toast.

The left traverse at the end is a little odd but I think adds some interesting character to the route. The leftward lean to the routes on the upper part of this side of the gully was probably unfortunate(the 15' distance limit at Castle forced routes left after the "first" one was done) but at least in this case, I think the traverse ending is at least as good as the other possible straight up ending (the thin finish to Blind Pig just above it). Jul 21, 2006
Nathan Smith
Salt Lake City
Nathan Smith   Salt Lake City
First Ascent: Nathan Smith Jun 26, 2006