Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: Doug Colwell, 2003
Page Views: 3,587 total · 15/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This incredible and bizarre route starts with a ramp to an angled dihedral and then heads up to a lip edge where the fun begins. Puzzle through a continuous series of fascinating crux moves along the lip of a left-leaning rib, figuring out when it's best to move on top of the lip and when it's best to hang below it. This rib lip area has scattered patina plates with a lot of blank sections. Standing above the lip tends to be blank for hands. Near it's end, exit right and head up to an easy crack section and finish with a thin slab/face move.

Location Suggest change

Far left side of the Southwest Side, just before you reach the mouth of the gully going N/NE (Hostess Gully). The start is right of a large dihedral and just left of a narrow corner with a small roof above it.

Protection Suggest change

Small rack of gear to 1.5" and long runners. Can sling horns down low. Bolts at the very start, along the crux section and for the top face move (probably no more than 8 total). Bolt anchors at the top.

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