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Routes in Hostess Gully - West Corridor

13b S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Between Heaven and Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Pig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Das Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Earth Muffin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Castleton T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fruit Filling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fruit Pie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get Your Fixe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ho Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon in Almo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Takes Two S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Numbshull T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patina Atoll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piece of Cake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Red Rib S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Rock Opera T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twinkie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Engle and Chris Barnes
Page Views: 500 total, 18/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Follow the bolt line through 2 overlaps (5.9) to a small stance about 2/3 the way up the wall. Use the optional belay or continue up the bolt line (5.7) to the top anchors.

Location

From top anchors of Slab Happy, 4th class across the low angle slab to top of the gully below the Red Rib Wall. Route starts at the chain anchors in the gully. One 60 meter rope in two rappels get back to the start of the climb. One rappel or 4th class stroll gets you back to the anchors of Slab Happy. From there one 60 meter rope rappel takes back to the ground.

Protection

13 quickdraws

Photos

Challenging and enjoyable for the 5.9 leader. With one exception, the bolts are exactly where I needed them to be. And the one bolt that was too high may be fine; perhaps I just couldn't find the right stance. It seems most 5.8-5.9 routes tend to be bolted for 5.10 and 5.11 climbers. Not this one; the climb is varied, fun, and the protection is unusually well executed. Jun 17, 2016
Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
 
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
 
After you climb this route, you can go back to Rock City and over beers casually mention your onsight flash of 13b! Aug 18, 2015