Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Engle and Chris Barnes
Page Views: 727 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Follow the bolt line through 2 overlaps (5.9) to a small stance about 2/3 the way up the wall. Use the optional belay or continue up the bolt line (5.7) to the top anchors.

Location

From top anchors of Slab Happy, 4th class across the low angle slab to top of the gully below the Red Rib Wall. Route starts at the chain anchors in the gully. One 60 meter rope in two rappels get back to the start of the climb. One rappel or 4th class stroll gets you back to the anchors of Slab Happy. From there one 60 meter rope rappel takes back to the ground.

Protection

13 quickdraws

Photos

Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
  5.9
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
  5.9
After you climb this route, you can go back to Rock City and over beers casually mention your onsight flash of 13b! Aug 18, 2015
Chris and Freda
Reno, NV
 
Chris and Freda   Reno, NV
 
Challenging and enjoyable for the 5.9 leader. With one exception, the bolts are exactly where I needed them to be. And the one bolt that was too high may be fine; perhaps I just couldn't find the right stance. It seems most 5.8-5.9 routes tend to be bolted for 5.10 and 5.11 climbers. Not this one; the climb is varied, fun, and the protection is unusually well executed. Jun 17, 2016