Type: Sport, 290 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hauter, North
Page Views: 6,386 total · 35/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This route is located on the west side of Castle Rock and is the second bolted route on the west side gully. The start is in a group of manhogany trees.

This route consists of three pitches of 5.7-5.8 face climbing that is well protected. Nothing too exicting, but a fun outing to the top of the formation. Rap the route with a single 60M.

Protection

Draws...
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
Well Protected and probably as good a route as you can find at the grade, Have fun!! Don't worry about the run out at the beginning of pitch 2, it's easy to get there!! Jul 17, 2006
Skiholzer
Hyde Park
 
Skiholzer   Hyde Park
 
I made the mistake of combining pitches 2 & 3. It can be done but the rope drag is horrendous, especially with the traverse at the start of pitch 3. I would have enjoyed this alot more had we done it in 3 ptiches. Oct 2, 2011
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
My wife and I did the first two pitches as one with our 70M rope. We could have made it all the way to the top of the third with that length of rope, but the rope drag made us stop at the second set of anchors. May 20, 2012
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.8+
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.8+
Stay on the main trail (don't hike up near Castle Rock from the parking lot). When you walk around to the west side, you'll see a trail that splits off the main trail with a sign for routes near this route. Take that trail. We hiked up along Castle Rocks all the way to this route and it was a bit rough.

The route though was great! I thought it was a very well sustained 5.8. Lots of great vertical exposure as well. Even a bit of fun exposed slab moves at the top of pitch two! The start of the first pitch was actually the most interesting pitch for me. Jul 23, 2012
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Way better than the snack cake! You couldn't find holds this good in a gym! Oct 20, 2012
bsmoot  
At the top of the 2nd pitch, I continued past the belay bolts for 20 more feet to the comfortable belay ledge. The single bolt can be backed up with some small TCU's or by jamming the rope in a wide spot behind the ledge....way better belay. Jun 17, 2013
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.8
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.8
Well protected and fun climbing. Be careful pulling your rope down from the first rappel, we got our rope stuck in the ledge/crack at the bottom of the 3rd pitch. Sep 5, 2013
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
This is one of my favorite climb ever! Probably have done it over 100 times. Sometimes two or three times in a day. Before breakfast, during lunch, after dinner. Climbed it in the dark, in the sun, in the wind, in the winter. Perfect length of hiking approach, perfect angle of climbing, perfect holds, perfect down climb, perfect everything! Dec 2, 2013
Joshua Benjamin
Nampa, Idaho
Joshua Benjamin   Nampa, Idaho
I'm not sure of the run out mentioned at the beginning of the 2nd pitch? I thought it was well protected. Be careful pulling your rope after the first rappel, it can get stuck in the crack of the ledge at the beginning of the 3rd pitch (like me and my partner did). Fun climb! Jun 23, 2014
Dan Mathews
  5.8
Dan Mathews  
  5.8
Probably the most fun of all the climbs I did in the area over a week. Did it in the sun, in the rain, as a finish to fruit pie ... Did it 3 times in a week. I was smiling and laughing the whole way up! Aug 11, 2014
Jenn Krogue
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jenn Krogue   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Josh - Lauren and I got the rope stuck after the first rappel too :( Thankfully that rap station is right there, but it was a sketchy down climb back to the belay station.) And the rope was stuck stuck. Nov 21, 2015
Definitely have to agree on this route prone to rope snags. Definitely at risk when throwing the rope from the third pitch but the rope may still catch on horns on all pitches. Definitely throw the rope out. On the second rap station, the only caution is throwing it into the trees. Oct 26, 2017