Type: Sport, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nathan Smith and Sherri Smith
Page Views: 2,776 total · 18/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Jul 16, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Excellent route well protected and recommended. A wee-bit hairy getting to the first bolt so be careful and nothing bad about the climb unless you do it on a hot afternoon in the summer!

Location

This is the fourth climb (from the top) on the right wall in Hostess gully. Begins with some easy slab for only about 7 feet to a small bulge/roof with the first bolt just over the bulge. Do not confuse with "Heaven & Earth" climb to its left.

Protection

Climb past many bolts to fixed chain anchors on top of both pitches. The first bolt is kinda hard to spot and a little high up. Rappel down "Heaven & Earth" with two ropes, next route to the left and with its own anchors on the very top of the wall.

Photos

Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
 
Bryson Slothower   Portland, OR
 
This route can be climbed in one pitch with a 60m rope, long slings help with drag. Two single rope rappels down the route will get you safely to the ground. Great climb! Jul 19, 2006
Carl Rene Pelletier
Jackson, Wyoming
Carl Rene Pelletier   Jackson, Wyoming
FA: Nathan Smith and Sherri Smith Jun 7, 2011
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
If you lead 5.8, getting to the first bolt is no problem. Climb to it using the "gully" on the right, just below "Piece of Cake (5.7)". If the first bolt is hairy to get to, it means you probably missed the first one and headed for the second - only the tippy top of the first bolt can be seen from the bottom. Mar 17, 2013
Dan Mathews
  5.8
Dan Mathews  
  5.8
I had trouble figuring out where the route started as the initial bolts are a ways up and hard to see from the ground. The route begins on the right side of the long overhang a few feet off the ground. You can easily protect the roof move by slinging a horn at the roof. The climbing is then very easy up the slab to the first bolt. The second pitch is great. Aug 11, 2014