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Castle Rock - North Spur Rock Climbing

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Routes in Castle Rock - North Spur

L › R R › L A › Z

	Absence of Authority T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Hairstyles and Attitudes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Jesus and Einstein S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Milk Toast S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	No Climb for Old Men S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	North Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

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GPS:	42.1252, -113.66801 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	David Tvedt on Apr 19, 2006
Admins:	GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP Details

(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…

The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.

(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.

Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.

The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…

Description

The North Wall is a good place to get out of the sun on hot days and has several very worth while lines. The rock quality of the routes here is not as superb as the west side but is still good. Routes here tend to be a little "dirty" and with some lichen. This area has several bolted lines along with some gear lines. The far right side of this wall is just around the corner from The Crack House. In spite of being closer to the trailhead than the popular westside, this area receives less traffic and often you can have the wall to yourself.

Getting There

Follow any one of the trail/roads coming from the trailhead going west, and head to the north corner of Castle Rock. The North Wall is on the left of this, around the corner from The Crack House.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock - North Spur

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 21 ● No Climb for Old Men Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 50 ● Jesus and Einstein Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 29 ● Milk Toast Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 9 ● North Face Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 57 ● Hairstyles and Attitudes Sport