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Routes in Castle Rock - East Face

10b or Not 10b S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crimson Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deadwood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Down and Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hospitaliano T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
It's Hard To Be A Saint In The City S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smiley Face T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sudan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Anderson, 2003
Page Views: 2,608 total, 18/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

A short, enjoyable route with great arete moves and one hard move about 2/3rds up. May be harder,(10b?) for shorter climbers. This route faces SE and gets late afternoon shade.

Location

The obvious short arete on the right side of the East Face notch.

Protection

Bolts with bolt anchors.

Photos

Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
This thing is sweet! We linked it with 10b or not 10b above for one long awesome pitch of 10a. You can climb above the chains on Crimson and clip the last bolt and chains of Casltles Made of Sand (the 11c just left of Crimson) and then step right to the first bolt of 10b or not 10b. To do this, you will need 14 draws plus something for the chains at the top. A couple of slings are nice as well to reduce rope drag. Make 2 rappels back to the base. Highly recommended this linkup! Jul 30, 2016
Annie Smoot
Holladay, Utah
Annie Smoot   Holladay, Utah
Incredibly scenic. Jug haul Jul 26, 2016
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Not sure I'd call this a pure arete climb as most of the moves occur on the left face. Still an awesome pitch for 35 feet of climbing. 4 stars if it were longer. Nov 10, 2014
Dan Mathews
  5.10a
Dan Mathews  
  5.10a
Great fun. Wish it were longer. Aug 11, 2014
Dan Kim
Calgary
 
Dan Kim   Calgary
 
great fun up the arrete. worth the climb. May 16, 2014
Bruce C. Anderson   Kuna, Id
CHA great fun for a short climb! Apr 25, 2010
Tyler Barker
Jackson, WY
Tyler Barker   Jackson, WY
wicked fun Mar 1, 2010