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Routes in Castle Rock - South Face

Bellissimo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Time Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Carpe Spot S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Castle Keep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corrin's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Diamond in the Rough T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Road T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imagine Wagons T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Little Time S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Pack Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oh My Gosh S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pollo Negro S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poster Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tiny Time T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Wedding Gift T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Kevin Pogue
Page Views: 11,626 total · 68/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2004 with updates from Doug Smith 3
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This route is located on the south slabs of the main formation. This would probably be a 3 star route, if it was not so overbolted. Most climbers will feel OK clipping every other bolt on the majority of this route.

There are 4 30M pitches to this route and is a good intro to the area. There are bolted anchors at each belay, so it makes for a quick outing to top of the formation. Rap the route with a single 60M rope.

A good way to climb this route is to combine the first and last 2 pitches together for 200ft pitches.

Protection

Lots of draws...
The description for this route was obviously written by an elitist prick. For example: "This would probably be a 3 star route, if it was not so overbolted." "Overbolted" depends on who you are and most of the intermediate climbers who climb this route are perfectly happy with the number of bolts. "Most climbers will feel OK clipping every other bolt on the majority of this route." If this is true, how come no one ever does this? The authors of the descriptions should stick to describing the routes and not inserting their elitist opinions. May 27, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Guideline #1: don't be a jerk.... May 29, 2006
Mike Ben
silverthorne/denver
Mike Ben   silverthorne/denver
I think I agree with the description. Way over bolted. I'm an average climber and not an elitist prick and I rarely complain about over bolting but this is over bolted. This would be a great route to get some kids or beginners on for their first lead though.Get 'em high off the ground too. If you clipped every bolt and linked the pitches you would have a ton of drag. Really shows the difference between old and new school routes. May 30, 2006
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
Great beginner lead and I think the last pitch is simply a blast to climb; don't pass up!! P.S. It has a couple bolts...:) Jul 17, 2006
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
We were caught by a hard rain on the second pitch so we didn't finish. The climbing was fun and a wonderfully safe lead for my less experienced partner. Thanks to the FAer! Sep 18, 2006
Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Link up pitch first two pitches and last two pitches leaving short glory pitch to summit. Bring long runners and enjoy the rock!!! Great route. Clip all the bolts you want to or just free solo it!! Mar 19, 2007
Rockwood
West Jordan
  5.7
Rockwood   West Jordan
  5.7
This is pretty over bolted and I'm kind of a beginner. We even skipped a belay station once or twice. We took up two ropes so we could make it from the top in just two rappels. The last pitch at the top has some good spots to snag your rope when you pull it. We opted to climb up the chimney to the very top and it was fun to mix it up. We'd arrived here and were looking for a long multipitch easy route we could finish before the sunset and this was perfect! Great views, nice and high, and lots of fun. Jul 16, 2009
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
This is a really fun climb. It starts with a series of overlapping flakes, similar to the shingles on a roof. There are good finger edges on these but they often face the wrong way, so you have to trust your feet.

The number of bolts are irrelevant...the climbing is fun and continuous for the first 30 meters. I split the climb into a 30m first pitch, and a 50-55 m second pitch, going all the way to the rap anchors on little time. The climbing is still fun on this pitch, but not as continuous as the first pitch.

If you are a beginnning leader, you will appreciate the spacing of the bolts. I've seen several parties lead this but never saw anyone skip any bolts... Apr 9, 2010
Matt Brodhead
Logan, UT
Matt Brodhead   Logan, UT
My buddy and I climbed this in the dark with headlamps. The last pitch is pretty fun and finishes on big granite plates. Oct 18, 2010
Tyson Taylor  
 
Very slabby, low angle, just a couple fun cruxy spots, great for someone learning to lead or for learning slab technique, but the real reasons for doing this route are to access "Diamond in the Rough'(Trad 000,3inch, doubles in .75"-2", and some nuts) and to do the last pitch, really fun, interestingly shaped rock at the top. Jun 11, 2011
Andrewprime1 Arredondo
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Andrewprime1 Arredondo   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
This is a pretty great multipitch climb. I did it in two big pitches with a 70 meter rope and two raps down with two 70's tied together. I ran out the bolts, but for a beginner they are nice to have. Aug 15, 2011
Walt Barker
Reno NV
 
Walt Barker   Reno NV
 
Really fun climb. Loved the begining of the 1st pitch. Aug 20, 2011
Jason Reed
Benson, Utah
  5.7+
Jason Reed   Benson, Utah
  5.7+
Wonderful route. A great variety of rock starting with the strange "shingles" on the first pitch and finishing with awesome cracked pocked granite on the last pitch. The last pitch was so fun we would have done it again if the light hadn't been failing.

Bring plenty of quick draws I would recommend placing some runners to keep rope drag down. We actually placed runners down nearly every other bolt that we clipped. We climbed on a 70m rope and lugged up a 60m to get down in 2 raps. Rap the route.

There is currently a $5.00 day use fee to get into Castle Rocks. The approach to this route was maybe 10 minutes (probably less) and there are signs pointing the way to the route.

As with most Kevin Pogue routes there is plenty of protection, so skip or clip, it's certainly nice to have the option. Sep 11, 2011
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
  5.7
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
  5.7
As always, Kevin's route lives up to great expectations - super fun on some really neat and varying rock. The last pitch is the crux with a really fun slightly overhanging move. Look for a hidden bolt behind a patina shingle right above this overhanging ledge (I missed it on lead and felt safe but some climbers might want the pro).

We used two ropes to rap and got down quickly in two. With a 70 m rope we easily linked the first two pitches.

Jason said it perfectly - skip or clip the bolts. As a lead climber most comfortable on moderate routes, I love Kevin's bolting mentality. He helps keep us newer climbers safe. And we did skip some bolts, but only because we wanted to link the first pitches. Otherwise I always clip the bolts - who wants to take a 20 foot slab fall that one time your foot slips? If skipping protection is your climbing MO, you can have it. Sep 11, 2011
wayniak
  5.7
wayniak  
  5.7
Rappel possible from the Little Time anchors to top of gully on left side of route w/70m rope. Sep 13, 2011
Climbed in the sun on 1/2/12. Strung out the bolts and did 2 pitches with a 70m rope. Great climb for those wanting to begin leading. Jan 8, 2012
climbed this route 2/6/12 with my buddy. simu-climbed whole route, used 10 draws. took longer to rappel than to climb! super fun Feb 9, 2012
Rwwon ru
  5.7
Rwwon ru  
  5.7
Kevin's routes really take away the runout-stress, and makes for a fun experience. I had an 80 m on this one. I now know it is exactly 40m to rap from the top of this climb to Little Time anchors, then one more rap into the gully as mentioned before.

Also, it seems like on the 3rd pitch you would stay by the large crack where the holds are, yet the bolts are out on the face, making it a long reach to clip a draw. Maybe we are the only ones to do it that way. Aug 21, 2013
S.Lee
 
S.Lee  
 
Fun easy route, as mentioned lots of bolts, if you don't like them don't clip them all. The last pitch was amazing! Sep 2, 2013
Ball
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
Funny how bolting is strictly regulated to avoid over-bolting, and the one guy with a permit is putting bolt ladders on the solo routes :) Jun 2, 2015
My problem with this description, is it doesn't really describe the route. Such as: does this route top out on the summit of Castle Rock? Is there anything more than following the dots...uh...line of bolts? Oct 26, 2015
applewood
Tonasket, WA
  5.7
applewood   Tonasket, WA
  5.7
We did this great route in 3 pitches; P1 - 5.7- **** (100'), P2 - 5.6 *** (150'), P3 - 5.4 ** (150') - and 4 raps (down Little Time) with a 60m rope. May 7, 2017
Climbed the route July 8, 2017 The last 10Meters of the final pitch are fantastic, I would do it again. Greatful for the work done in putting this route up. Thank you Jul 10, 2017
Jared Hancock
Travelers Rest, SC
 
Jared Hancock   Travelers Rest, SC
 
Is this route open? Apr 10, 2018
Chris Morgan
Ogden, UT
 
Chris Morgan   Ogden, UT
 
Wow! What a fun, fantastic multi-pitch. The climbing is never overly difficult, so this is a great beginner multi-pitch. My teenaged daughter and I climbed it in late March with no crowds, great weather, and had a ball. It takes a while to rappel off of. It was so fun, we plan on climbing it again. Apr 29, 2018
muertes
cincinnati, ohio
muertes   cincinnati, ohio
Hey! I’m coming from out of town and I am having trouble figuring out all the access issues. Is this route and the whole of the south face of castle rock ok to climb? May 29, 2018
Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
 
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
 
Yes, it and all of Castle Rock (Lone Peak) is open to climbing. Only routes on the BLM sector are closed and it's a fairly small number of routes. All BLM routes that got posted to MP are clearly marked closed. For full details of the BLM boundary and as an excellent resource to Castles and COR, I suggest you pick up the latest edition of Dave Bingham's guide to City of Rocks and Castle Rocks. Both areas are now in one excellent volume. May 29, 2018

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