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Routes in Castle Rock - South Face

Bellissimo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Time Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Carpe Spot S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Castle Keep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corrin's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Diamond in the Rough T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Road T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imagine Wagons T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Little Time S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Pack Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oh My Gosh S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pollo Negro S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poster Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tiny Time T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Wedding Gift T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Howard
Page Views: 1,519 total · 8/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2003
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This route is location on the south slabs of the main formation. It is 2 routes to the right of Big Time, which is a 4-5 pitch bolted 5.7.

The first pitch is 5.8 except for the attention getting start at about 5.9. There is a little loose rock at the start. This pitch ends at a bolt anchor.

The second pitch has some quality slab climbing in the 5.9 range and is a real treat. I recommend combining the first two pitches in one long lead for the full experience.

The third pitch is the business pitch of the climb. Climb loose rock with trad gear to the first bolt. Fun patina face climbing leads you to another bolt anchor. (5.11a) The best descent may be with one rope, by rapping Big Time if it is not to crowded. It is a little scary getting to the first bolt due to the poor rock.

Protection

Draws and a light rack for the start of pitch 3...

Photos

I felt like it went P1-5.8 P2-5.9 and P3-5.11b. Sep 7, 2008
Link P1+P2 with a 60M rope and 13 draws. P3 does NOT rap with a 60M. Knot your ends with a 70. Pitch 3 earns the stars and pitch two as well if you like slabby smearing on perfect rock. Jun 15, 2017
Link P1+P2 with a 60M rope and 13 draws. P3 does NOT rap with a 60M. Knot your ends with a 70. Pitch 3 earns the stars and pitch two as well if you like slabby smearing on perfect rock.P3 is height dependent. Probably would be 5.10 for a taller guy and soild 11 for the average girl. Jun 15, 2017

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