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Routes in Castle Rock - South Face

Bellissimo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Time Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Carpe Spot S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Castle Keep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corrin's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Diamond in the Rough T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Road T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imagine Wagons T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Little Time S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Pack Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oh My Gosh S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pollo Negro S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poster Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tiny Time T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Wedding Gift T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Pogue
Page Views: 4,799 total · 34/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Jul 16, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Not really a crux to this route unless you climb in the middle of an afternoon in summer. First pitch is WAY mellow but the second pitch while mellow is still a lot of fun. I recommend only doing these two pitches and save the top out for "Big Time" route but they easily can link up!

Location

About 100 yards to the left of Big Time and just right of the obvious Red Rib feature. Follow the line of bolts up low angle climbing!

Protection

Bolts and lots of them with fixed anchors in uncomfortable spots! One double rope rappel will barely make it to the ground.

Photos

Ben Zeigler  
 
There is a bolted line between Little Time and Big Time. It is currently listed as High Times on here. High Times is not in the book, so make sure you go far enough climber's left if you're looking for Little Time. The second pitch of Little Time is incredible fun. Sep 13, 2014
EthanC
  5.7
EthanC  
  5.7
Maybe it's because I'm not really a slab climber, but I found Little Time more challenging and more interesting than the first 3 pitches of Big Time. Good route and fun. Jun 17, 2014
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
 
This is a perfect route for teaching basic multi-pitch techniques. You can lead the 1st pitch and deal with the uncomfortable hanging belay, then your second can have the more fun 2nd pitch and a comfortable 2nd belay ledge. It was certainly nice to have the option to link up to the upper pitches of Big Time (which we did) - that final pitch is stellar for the grade (5.7). Apr 13, 2013
kevinhansen
Albion Idaho
 
kevinhansen   Albion Idaho
 
Good slab climb with lots of features to grab and stand on. I wanted to clim this to get the points for the "City Slicker" award at the first "Idaho Mountain Fest". I ended up free soloing the route then rapping from the second pitch. Oct 14, 2012
wayniak
  5.6
wayniak  
  5.6
Rappel possible (just) to top of left side gulley w/70m rope. Sep 13, 2011
Walt Barker
Reno NV
 
Walt Barker   Reno NV
 
Fun climb. Be prepared to hang at the first belay station. Was a great climb to get warmed up after a hiatus. Aug 20, 2011
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Many bolts...so good for a beginning leader. I think there are over 20 in the first 60m.

I've seen a hawk a couple of times in the chimney left of the second pitch, so be careful not to disturb it.

Lots of patina chickenheads to get your rappel rope stuck on at the top. Can rappel with a single 60m, since there are rap stations 30m apart. The last rappel station at the bottom is in a dish with no real place to stand...a test of how comfortable your harness is to hang in. Apr 9, 2010
Kevin Cossel
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Kevin Cossel   Boulder, CO
  5.6
This is a really fun beginner lead climb, lots of hand holds and good foot holds. The first pitch would also be a great first pitch to introduce someone to climbing. It's about 90 feet, but it's easy and you climb about 20 feet and then there's a nice ledge to rest on before continuing the next 20 feet or so where there's another ledge. Jul 21, 2008

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