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Routes in Castle Rock - South Face

Bellissimo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Time Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Carpe Spot S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Castle Keep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corrin's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Diamond in the Rough T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Road T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imagine Wagons T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Little Time S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Pack Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oh My Gosh S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pollo Negro S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poster Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tiny Time T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Wedding Gift T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 195 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dwayne Ackerman
Page Views: 1,171 total · 26/month
Shared By: Tod Gunter on Apr 13, 2014 with updates
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Another slabby route in between Big Time and Little Time. Still a bit grainy, 2nd pitch is thoughtful friction, more so that it's neighbors.

Pitch 1: 90 ft angling slightly left to chain belay in a depression
Pitch 2: Angle sharply left to gain a slight rib which is followed up to the next belay

It may be possible to join the third pitch of Big Time with a 15 or 20 foot runout.

I climbed just one full rope length then rapped (one 60M rope, two raps)

Location

I included this so people wouldn't get confused thinking it's Little Time (which we did). It's about 50 feet left of Big Time where Little Time is about 100 yards left. Hopefully the route developer will add the actual name and other info

Protection

Lots of bolts

Photos

RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Duane builds the best routes. Clean, well bolted, logical and fun! May 22, 2016
Thanks for the info mike! Sep 21, 2015
Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
The 2 pitch bolted route between "Little Time" and "Big Time" is called "Oh My Gosh". Dwayne Ackerman did the FA and rated it 5.7. This is based on route info from Brad Shilling.

Chris Barnes' route "High Times" is as Dave indicated and is left of "Little Time" and in fact is closer to "Red Rib". It is just to the right of the major gully right of the "Red Rib" feature/fin. According to Chris, "High Times" is 5.8cb which means it could be 5.9 or 5.10a. It is also 2 pitches. Sep 6, 2015
Chris Humphries   LA
 
I believe this is indeed in-between Little and Big times, and it seemed a little stiff for 5.7 to me. In the shared guide at Rock City this climb is written in LEFT of Little Time if I remember correctly and is graded 5.9 (Seems like the location may be off). We linked over to Big time for a short 3rd pitch to meet up at Big Time 2nd anchor and then continued on to top. Sep 5, 2015
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
This is 50 feet to left of big time as stated.

I really suck at slab, and this was cakewalk. 1 move in middle was a bit hard that I pulled on draw and hung and then did it after found the foothold. Jul 23, 2014
Tod Gunter
Hailey, ID
 
Tod Gunter   Hailey, ID
 
Well this route was just left of Big Time so may not be the same..... BTW Congratulations on the recent marriage Dave!. Jul 13, 2014
I'm wondering if you did Chris Barnes "High Times" (5.7), which I have not done, but is said to be Left of "Little Time"? Jun 9, 2014