Type: Trad, 122 ft (37 m)
FA: Chris Barnes 2015
Page Views: 1,385 total · 14/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 7, 2016 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Awkward thoughtful fun more easily climbed by the dedicated yoga enthusiast.

Start up the low angle face and place a piece of pro (.5 Camalot or thereabouts) in the crack on the flake features right side. Sandy step up to the first clip below a couple of protruding knobs.

Go left and right to keep the route doable. Improbably sweet transitions off mantles and friction moves.

NOTE (!!): a single 70m rope just barely works for this route. Please (please) tie a knot in the bottom of your rope if you plan on lowering off from this route.

Location Suggest change

Located to the right of the start of Red Rib and just right of the chimney.

Rappel if you have a pair of 50 or 60m ropes. Carefully lower (again, knot in the end of the rope!) if you have a 70m rope.

Can be continued up the upper pitches of Little Time or Big Time.

Protection Suggest change

Start off with a 1/2" to 1 1/2" cam in the low angle flake, then step up and clip the first bolt.

7 lead bolts to a two bolt chained anchor.

70m single rope barely reaches. Tie a knot in the end or use 2 60's for this route!