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Routes in Castle Rock - South Face

Bellissimo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Time Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Carpe Spot S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Castle Keep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corrin's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Diamond in the Rough T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Road T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imagine Wagons T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Little Time S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Pack Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oh My Gosh S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pollo Negro S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poster Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tiny Time T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Wedding Gift T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 122 ft
FA: Chris Barnes
Page Views: 363 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 7, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Awkward thoughtful fun more easily climbed by the dedicated yoga enthusiast.

Start up the low angle face and place a piece of pro (.5 Camalot or thereabouts) in the crack on the flake features right side. Sandy step up to the first clip below a couple of protruding knobs.

Go left and right to keep the route doable. Improbably sweet transitions off mantles and friction moves.

NOTE (!!): a single 70m rope just barely works for this route. Please (please) tie a knot in the bottom of your rope if you plan on lowering off from this route.

Location

Located to the right of the start of Red Rib and just right of the chimney.

Rappel if you have a pair of 50 or 60m ropes. Carefully lower (again, knot in the end of the rope!) if you have a 70m rope.

Can be continued up the upper pitches of Little Time or Big Time.

Protection

Start off with a 1/2" to 1 1/2" cam in the low angle flake, then step up and clip the first bolt.

7 lead bolts to a two bolt chained anchor.

70m single rope barely reaches. Tie a knot in the end or use 2 60's for this route!

Photos

zaq
zaq  
Didnt bring and gear, it was just fine, a little high of a first bolt but nothing crazy. A 70m work perfect on a double rap down Sep 27, 2016

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