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Diamond in the Rough
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 17
votes
Routes in Castle Rock - South Face
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Bellissimo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Time Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Carpe Spot S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Castle Keep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corrin's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Diamond in the Rough T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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High Road T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Imagine Wagons T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Little Time S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Pack Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Oh My Gosh S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pollo Negro S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Poster Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Tiny Time T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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Wedding Gift T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,826 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Louis Eubank on Nov 29, 2008 |
| Admins: | grk10vq, Mike Engle |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING
Details
The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails.
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
See this link from the Access Fund for additional info and maps: accessfund.org/open-gate-bl…
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
See this link from the Access Fund for additional info and maps: accessfund.org/open-gate-bl…
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
A really fun variation on Big Time. Just after the start of the third pitch on Big Time, traverse right to the obvious left facing crack. Skip clipping the first couple bolts on the 3rd pitch of Big Time or you'll pick up some heinous rope drag.
Word of caution for night climbing: Bats live in the crack, and if you shine your headlamp in at oh, say 2am, you might scream like a little girl as they fly out 2 inches from your face.
After the crack ends, finish by topping out on the 4th (final) pitch on Big Time, definitely need a 60m rope.
Word of caution for night climbing: Bats live in the crack, and if you shine your headlamp in at oh, say 2am, you might scream like a little girl as they fly out 2 inches from your face.
After the crack ends, finish by topping out on the 4th (final) pitch on Big Time, definitely need a 60m rope.
Sandy, Utah
Guidebook has it at 5.10a. Harder? Dec 2, 2008
Ketchum, Idaho
Las Vegas
Portland, OR
Salt Lake City, UT
Bring a #.3 or something fairly small to protect the opening move. I had to do it unprotected and it made the climb a little spicy. You can stuff as many #.75s and #1s in this route as you can carry. I remember bringing at least one #2 as well. Guidebook says pro to 3.5 inches but I don't think there's a single spot for a #3. Jan 3, 2014
Salt Lake City, UT