Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,826 total · 15/month
Shared By: Louis Eubank on Nov 29, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details


A really fun variation on Big Time. Just after the start of the third pitch on Big Time, traverse right to the obvious left facing crack. Skip clipping the first couple bolts on the 3rd pitch of Big Time or you'll pick up some heinous rope drag.

Word of caution for night climbing: Bats live in the crack, and if you shine your headlamp in at oh, say 2am, you might scream like a little girl as they fly out 2 inches from your face.

After the crack ends, finish by topping out on the 4th (final) pitch on Big Time, definitely need a 60m rope.


Rap Big Time.


Gear to #2 Camalot. I placed 6 pieces and completely sewed it up.


Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I believe its "Diamond" in the Rough.

Guidebook has it at 5.10a. Harder? Dec 2, 2008
Drew Daly
Ketchum, Idaho
Drew Daly   Ketchum, Idaho
Felt more like 5.9 compared to other City 10a climbs. Fun, but a little dirty and mossy. Oct 11, 2011
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
Great climb, didn't use anything larger than a #1 camalot. Feels soft compared to most 10s around. Feb 13, 2012
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
Fun pitch and a great link with Big Time. Felt 5.9 to me. Be aware that there was a beehive in the crack as a few days ago but it didn't get in the way if climbing the pitch. Sep 15, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
Definitely no harder than 5.10a but well worth the effort if you're a couple pitches up Big Time. Crack is a bit dirty and has a nice little fern growing in it. Good crack technique and stemming keep this reasonable.

Bring a #.3 or something fairly small to protect the opening move. I had to do it unprotected and it made the climb a little spicy. You can stuff as many #.75s and #1s in this route as you can carry. I remember bringing at least one #2 as well. Guidebook says pro to 3.5 inches but I don't think there's a single spot for a #3. Jan 3, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
This felt not nearly as strenuous or sustained as Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice in the City. A soft 5.10a, but harder than the 5.9s we did in the area. Very reasonable. Jan 3, 2014