Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Castle Rock - South Face

Bellissimo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Time Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Carpe Spot S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Castle Keep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corrin's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Diamond in the Rough T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Road T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imagine Wagons T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Little Time S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Pack Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oh My Gosh S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pollo Negro S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poster Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tiny Time T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Wedding Gift T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,722 total · 15/month
Shared By: Louis Eubank on Nov 29, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

A really fun variation on Big Time. Just after the start of the third pitch on Big Time, traverse right to the obvious left facing crack. Skip clipping the first couple bolts on the 3rd pitch of Big Time or you'll pick up some heinous rope drag.

Word of caution for night climbing: Bats live in the crack, and if you shine your headlamp in at oh, say 2am, you might scream like a little girl as they fly out 2 inches from your face.

After the crack ends, finish by topping out on the 4th (final) pitch on Big Time, definitely need a 60m rope.

Location

Rap Big Time.

Protection

Gear to #2 Camalot. I placed 6 pieces and completely sewed it up.

Photos

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I believe its "Diamond" in the Rough.

Guidebook has it at 5.10a. Harder? Dec 2, 2008
Drew Daly
Ketchum, Idaho
  5.9
Drew Daly   Ketchum, Idaho
  5.9
Felt more like 5.9 compared to other City 10a climbs. Fun, but a little dirty and mossy. Oct 11, 2011
JF1
Las Vegas
 
JF1   Las Vegas
 
Great climb, didn't use anything larger than a #1 camalot. Feels soft compared to most 10s around. Feb 13, 2012
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
  5.9
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
  5.9
Fun pitch and a great link with Big Time. Felt 5.9 to me. Be aware that there was a beehive in the crack as a few days ago but it didn't get in the way if climbing the pitch. Sep 15, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Definitely no harder than 5.10a but well worth the effort if you're a couple pitches up Big Time. Crack is a bit dirty and has a nice little fern growing in it. Good crack technique and stemming keep this reasonable.

Bring a #.3 or something fairly small to protect the opening move. I had to do it unprotected and it made the climb a little spicy. You can stuff as many #.75s and #1s in this route as you can carry. I remember bringing at least one #2 as well. Guidebook says pro to 3.5 inches but I don't think there's a single spot for a #3. Jan 3, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
This felt not nearly as strenuous or sustained as Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice in the City. A soft 5.10a, but harder than the 5.9s we did in the area. Very reasonable. Jan 3, 2014

More About Diamond in the Rough

Printer-Friendly