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Routes in Castle Rock - South Face
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Bellissimo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Time Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Carpe Spot S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Castle Keep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corrin's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Diamond in the Rough T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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High Road T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Imagine Wagons T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Little Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Little Time S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Pack Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Obsession S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 |
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Oh My Gosh S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pollo Negro S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Poster Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Strange Times S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tiny Time T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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Wedding Gift T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 42.12369, -113.67155 |
| FA: | Duane Ackerman with help from Karl Mudge |
| Page Views: | 397 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | RKM on Aug 8, 2023 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
This route - Obsession - was created by Duane Ackerman with the help of Karl Mudge in November 2017. Duane had looked at the possible route for a long time. Obsession starts left of the route Carpe Spot with a bolt ladder ascending a very steep wall with 10 bolts. Strenuous to lead, might be a possible free pitch someday. Continue up the main crack line for another 2 pitches that ends on a large ledge under the overhanging red rock headwall.
Can be climbed at 5.8 to 5.10c. Descend by 4 raps with a 60m
P1 - Bolt Ladder to first anchor
P1A - Stay below the first anchor climbing around right to the second crack up to second anchor (5.7)
P2A - From the first anchor head for the crack at the right end of the roof to second anchor (10c)
P2B - From the first anchor drop down around the toe of the buttress, up the buttress to the crack directly below the second anchor (10a)
P3 - From the second anchor head up the crack system above the anchor continuing up right to the ledge and top anchor (5.7)
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