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Routes in West Buttress - South

Bug City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Claim Jumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drew's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Enemy Combatant TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friction Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Layback and Relax TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poking Holes in the Firmament S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ryobi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scorpio Rising S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sexcellent S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shock and Awe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sqench S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiers of Joy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This spur off the west side of Castle Rock has several routes on it's south face that include: Claim Jumper (sport), Shock and Awe (sport), Enemy Combatant (Top Rope), Advance to Idaho (Trad), Squench (Sport). This wall faces directly south but gets some shade earlier in the morning from the main Castle Rock to east. You may have a waiting line for Shock and Awe on busy days. Around the left corner on the northwest side of the buttress, there are several more routes: Sword in the Stone (bolts and gear), Excalibur (trad) and Shifting Gears (bolts and gear). This wall has good shade until mid afternoon.

Approach the left most routes of this buttress by scrambling to a ledge 100 feet left of the gully.

Getting There

Approach this crag by following the trail along the old ranch road that skirts south side of Castle Rock. Continue along the trail until you reach a signed trail that leads to the Hostess Gully. Follow the trail and flagging up through a boulder field to the routes.

Continue on the trail past Red Rib and Patina Atoll, take a left when you reach the base of the gully, and look for a flagged sign for Shock and Awe and head up the trail to the buttress on the right. The area can also be approached by following the trail/road along the south side of Castle Rock, then following it north along the west side of Castle Rock. This approach goes right along-side the west tip of the West Buttress.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Buttress - South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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DavidCollins
Grand Junction, CO
DavidCollins   Grand Junction, CO
It looks like there are three sets of anchors to the right and uphill from Scorpio Rising. What are these routes? Jul 25, 2014
DCrane
Taylorsville, UT
DCrane   Taylorsville, UT
Grunt and Moan is just left of the gully that accesses Claim Jumper and Shock and Awe. There is a sign pointing up toward Shock and Awe near the base of Grunt and Moan. A better sort would be to put Grunt and Moan to the far left, then Claim, then Shock Oct 7, 2017
In Bingham's book (2016), the 3 routes right of Scorpio Rising are Genevive (5.7, 60', 3 bolts + gear), Just Right (5.7, 60', 7b, though I counted 6b and used a #1 Camalot), and Accidental Spice (5.8, 50', 3b + gear). Jun 17, 2018

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