Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 467 total · 11/month
Shared By: Daniel L on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP Details

Description

Originally claimed to be 5.11b, but very doubtful, more like 5.12.

Beta according to Guide book:

Pitch 1: Start in splitter crack to cave belay (70').
Pitch 2: Climb roof crack (20').
Pitch 3: Climb wild arete on bolts (30').

My beta:

Pitch 1: Start on easy slab that works into a dirty thin crack with shrubs that you must climb through. Once past the shrubs, it's clean climbing on thin fingers up the left side into the cave. Instead of making a gear anchor here, keeping going twenty more feet past the roof with moderate rope drag to a chain anchor.(90')
Pitch 2: Climb sporty arete (30').

Rap two times with a 60m rope.

Location

Take the faint trail through the shrubbery until you are clearly below the massive roof.

Protection

2x Thin fingers to 0.75 BD.
1x BD #3 (optional, but protects start of roof very well).
Several extendable draws

Photos