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Routes in West Side - Excalibur Area

Excalibur T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 249 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dan Lay on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Originally claimed to be 5.11b, but very doubtful, more like 5.12.

Beta according to Guide book:

Pitch 1: Start in splitter crack to cave belay (70').
Pitch 2: Climb roof crack (20').
Pitch 3: Climb wild arete on bolts (30').

My beta:

Pitch 1: Start on easy slab that works into a dirty thin crack with shrubs that you must climb through. Once past the shrubs, it's clean climbing on thin fingers up the left side into the cave. Instead of making a gear anchor here, keeping going twenty more feet past the roof with moderate rope drag to a chain anchor.(90')
Pitch 2: Climb sporty arete (30').

Rap two times with a 60m rope.

Location

Take the faint trail through the shrubbery until you are clearly below the massive roof.

Protection

2x Thin fingers to 0.75 BD.
1x BD #3 (optional, but protects start of roof very well).
Several extendable draws

Photos

sam murray  
 
Really cool route. We broke it up as the book suggests, but linking 1 and 2 would be the way to go. From the chains after the roof you can rap with a single 70 no problem. If you are using the comp splitter as a benchmark 11a (like I did) this is going to be a rude awakening but don't let that hold you back! Apr 27, 2016