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Routes in West Side - Excalibur Area

Excalibur T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 282 total · 11/month
Shared By: Colten L on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description [Edit]

Originally claimed to be 5.11b, but very doubtful, more like 5.12.

Beta according to Guide book:

Pitch 1: Start in splitter crack to cave belay (70').
Pitch 2: Climb roof crack (20').
Pitch 3: Climb wild arete on bolts (30').

My beta:

Pitch 1: Start on easy slab that works into a dirty thin crack with shrubs that you must climb through. Once past the shrubs, it's clean climbing on thin fingers up the left side into the cave. Instead of making a gear anchor here, keeping going twenty more feet past the roof with moderate rope drag to a chain anchor.(90')
Pitch 2: Climb sporty arete (30').

Rap two times with a 60m rope.

Location [Edit]

Take the faint trail through the shrubbery until you are clearly below the massive roof.

Protection [Edit]

2x Thin fingers to 0.75 BD.
1x BD #3 (optional, but protects start of roof very well).
Several extendable draws

Photos

sam murray  
 
Really cool route. We broke it up as the book suggests, but linking 1 and 2 would be the way to go. From the chains after the roof you can rap with a single 70 no problem. If you are using the comp splitter as a benchmark 11a (like I did) this is going to be a rude awakening but don't let that hold you back! Apr 27, 2016

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