Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Bingham, 2003
Page Views: 4,682 total · 29/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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67 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This fun diverse route starts on patina edges. The crux hits low with in a maze of small patina holds facing different directions. Continue on with tricky pull-down edging leading to a steep jug finish.

Location

South side of the West Buttress of Castle Rock

Protection

Bolts. Bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

EB
Winona
EB   Winona
classic! Apr 20, 2009
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10a
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10a
When it is 4 stars, you just do it. Don't leave the area without ticking this one off. A word of warning...don't do it in the heat of the day (as I found out the first time I attempted it). This route is best done in the morning. Jul 12, 2009
ben orton
  5.9
ben orton  
  5.9
One of the best routes in the park hands down. 5.9 the 10 rating is not because of the move difficulty just the mental focus needed. Jun 2, 2013
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
One of my fav routes of all time. Mentally challenging more than physically - thin edges for feet and hands on very positive face with spaced out bolts. A must do in the city/castle area. Oct 29, 2013
Dan Mathews
  5.10a PG13
Dan Mathews  
  5.10a PG13
I thought the climbing was harder and more run out than it looked from the ground. Because there are a couple of large ledges on the route, there are occasions where it is likely one would hit a big ledge if you were to fall while nearing the next bolt. The bolting is a bit sporty compared to many of the newer routes at Castle Rocks. Aug 28, 2014
Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
 
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
 
One of the best routes for the grade at Castle or City! Aug 17, 2015
Joshua Benjamin
Nampa, Idaho
  5.9+
Joshua Benjamin   Nampa, Idaho
  5.9+
Great route. It's really common for people to ditch the gear they don't need before the 4th class scramble to the base of the climb. Just know that there are 10 bolts on the route, or else you'll have to skip the last bolt or two like I did! Bring 12 draws or climb in your brown pants. Jun 13, 2016
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Needlessly run out over the obvious ledge-fall. It seems like it's only a matter of time before an injury occurs there. Easy to fix (cough cough ..ahem -FA's!) Please make it perfect! Top shelf climbing otherwise! Oct 16, 2018