Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Buttress - South

Bug City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Claim Jumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drew's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Enemy Combatant TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friction Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Layback and Relax TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poking Holes in the Firmament S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ryobi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scorpio Rising S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sexcellent S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shock and Awe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sqench S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiers of Joy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Bingham, 2003
Page Views: 4,400 total · 29/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


62 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This fun diverse route starts on patina edges. The crux hits low with in a maze of small patina holds facing different directions. Continue on with tricky pull-down edging leading to a steep jug finish.

Location

South side of the West Buttress of Castle Rock

Protection

Bolts. Bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

EB
Winona
EB   Winona
classic! Apr 20, 2009
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10a
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10a
When it is 4 stars, you just do it. Don't leave the area without ticking this one off. A word of warning...don't do it in the heat of the day (as I found out the first time I attempted it). This route is best done in the morning. Jul 12, 2009
ben orton
  5.9
ben orton  
  5.9
One of the best routes in the park hands down. 5.9 the 10 rating is not because of the move difficulty just the mental focus needed. Jun 2, 2013
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
One of my fav routes of all time. Mentally challenging more than physically - thin edges for feet and hands on very positive face with spaced out bolts. A must do in the city/castle area. Oct 29, 2013
Dan Mathews
  5.10a PG13
Dan Mathews  
  5.10a PG13
I thought the climbing was harder and more run out than it looked from the ground. Because there are a couple of large ledges on the route, there are occasions where it is likely one would hit a big ledge if you were to fall while nearing the next bolt. The bolting is a bit sporty compared to many of the newer routes at Castle Rocks. Aug 28, 2014
Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
 
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
 
One of the best routes for the grade at Castle or City! Aug 17, 2015
Joshua Benjamin
Nampa, Idaho
  5.9+
Joshua Benjamin   Nampa, Idaho
  5.9+
Great route. It's really common for people to ditch the gear they don't need before the 4th class scramble to the base of the climb. Just know that there are 10 bolts on the route, or else you'll have to skip the last bolt or two like I did! Bring 12 draws or climb in your brown pants. Jun 13, 2016

More About Shock and Awe

Printer-Friendly