Elevation: 4,200 ft
GPS: 33.9986, -116.1448
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Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Sheep Pass is a large, vague area near the southeastern end of the broader Lost Horse Valley (technically, the pass, several miles east of Hidden Valley Campground on the main park road, divides Lost Horse Valley from Queen Valley, and the Sheep Pass group campground lies on the Queen Valley side of the pass, but most of the climbing is on the Lost Horse side of the pass). Incidentally, if you're coming with a group, Sheep Pass is the place to try to get a campsite -- but make your reservations way in advance.

The most prominent formation in the Sheep Pass area is the huge Saddle Rocks, which sit high up on the side of Ryan Mountain (which provides the eastern border of the Lost Horse Valley). Saddle Rocks can be seen from miles away, and their faces contain some of the longest climbs in the park. Other smaller areas in Sheep Pass include Cap Rock, Television Wall, Cowboy Crags, and the Ryan Campground area (notable for some nice bouldering, and of course the aptly-named Headstone Rock).

For a sparse area, however, Sheep Pass has several must-climb classics. Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+) is a classic, slabby 3-pitch ascent up the east face of Saddle Rocks, and the Headstone's SW Corner (5.6) and Cryptic (5.8) are deservedly popular routes to the top of a truly unique formation.

Getting There

As noted above, Sheep Pass generally lies on or near the main park road, a few miles east of Hidden Valley Campground. Headstone Rock is best accessed from within Ryan Campground, and turnouts for Saddle Rocks, Cap Rock, and the group campground are clearly signed.

482 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sheep Pass Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 109
False Lieback
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1,015
SW Corner
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 450
Right On
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 122
Lickety Splits
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 298
Lazy Day
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 646
Cryptic
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 547
Walk on the Wild Side
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 270
Nurn's Romp
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 126
Catch a Falling Star
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
Planet X
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 480
Exorcist
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 169
Diamond Dogs
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 112
Dog Day Afternoon
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 402
Heart of Darkness
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 98
Jane's Addiction
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
False Lieback Cap Rock Area > Cap Rock > Cap Rock - N Face
 109
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
SW Corner Ryan Campground > Headstone Rock
 1,015
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Right On Saddle Rocks Area > … > (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 450
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Lickety Splits Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > E Wall, N End (Diamon…
 122
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Lazy Day Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > S Horror Rock
 298
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cryptic Ryan Campground > Headstone Rock
 646
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Walk on the Wild Side Saddle Rocks Area > … > (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 547
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Nurn's Romp Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > E Wall Inner (Exorcis…
 270
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Catch a Falling Star Cap Rock Area > Cap Rock > Cap Rock - Southeast…
 126
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Planet X Planet X Area > Planet X Pinnacle
 96
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Exorcist Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > E Wall Inner (Exorcis…
 480
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Diamond Dogs Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > E Wall, N End (Diamon…
 169
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Dog Day Afternoon Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > S Horror Rock
 112
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Heart of Darkness Oyster Bar Area > Conrad Rock > Conrad Rock - Heart o…
 402
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Jane's Addiction Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > W Wall Inner (Jane's…
 98
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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