Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Sheep Pass Area

Cap Rock Area 46 / 3 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 56
Cave Corridor Area 23 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 29
Hall of Horrors Area 90 / 16 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 120
Oyster Bar Area 36 / 8 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 48
Planet X Area 15 / 4 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Ryan Campground 17 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Saddle Rocks Area 48 / 10 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 65
Sheep Pass CG Area 31 / 0 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37

Description

Sheep Pass is a large, vague area near the southeastern end of the broader Lost Horse Valley (technically, the pass, several miles east of Hidden Valley Campground on the main park road, divides Lost Horse Valley from Queen Valley, and the Sheep Pass group campground lies on the Queen Valley side of the pass, but most of the climbing is on the Lost Horse side of the pass). Incidentally, if you're coming with a group, Sheep Pass is the place to try to get a campsite -- but make your reservations way in advance.

The most prominent formation in the Sheep Pass area is the huge Saddle Rocks, which sit high up on the side of Ryan Mountain (which provides the eastern border of the Lost Horse Valley). Saddle Rocks can be seen from miles away, and their faces contain some of the longest climbs in the park. Other smaller areas in Sheep Pass include Cap Rock, Television Wall, Cowboy Crags, and the Ryan Campground area (notable for some nice bouldering, and of course the aptly-named Headstone Rock).

For a sparse area, however, Sheep Pass has several must-climb classics. Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+) is a classic, slabby 3-pitch ascent up the east face of Saddle Rocks, and the Headstone's SW Corner (5.6) and Cryptic (5.8) are deservedly popular routes to the top of a truly unique formation.

Getting There

As noted above, Sheep Pass generally lies on or near the main park road, a few miles east of Hidden Valley Campground. Headstone Rock is best accessed from within Ryan Campground, and turnouts for Saddle Rocks, Cap Rock, and the group campground are clearly signed.

400 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Sheep Pass Area Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Sheep Pass Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
False Lieback
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
SW Corner
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Right On
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lickety Splits
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lazy Day
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cryptic
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk on the Wild Side
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nurn's Romp
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch A Falling Star
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planet X
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exorcist
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diamond Dogs
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dog Day Afternoon
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heart of Darkness
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jane's Addiction
Sport
False Lieback Cap Rock Area > Cap Rock > Cap Rock - N Face 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
SW Corner Ryan Campground > Headstone Rock 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Right On Saddle Rocks Area > … > Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Lickety Splits Hall of Horrors Area > Hall of Horrors > E Wall, N End (Diamond Dogs Area) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Lazy Day Hall of Horrors Area > Hall of Horrors > S Horror Rock 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cryptic Ryan Campground > Headstone Rock 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Walk on the Wild Side Saddle Rocks Area > … > Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Nurn's Romp Hall of Horrors Area > Hall of Horrors > E Wall Inner (Exorcist Area) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Catch A Falling Star Cap Rock Area > Cap Rock > Cap Rock - Southeast Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Planet X Planet X Area > Planet X Pinnacle 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Exorcist Hall of Horrors Area > Hall of Horrors > E Wall Inner (Exorcist Area) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Diamond Dogs Hall of Horrors Area > Hall of Horrors > E Wall, N End (Diamond Dogs Area) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Dog Day Afternoon Hall of Horrors Area > Hall of Horrors > S Horror Rock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Heart of Darkness Oyster Bar Area > Conrad Rock > Conrad Rock - Heart of Darkness… 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Jane's Addiction Hall of Horrors Area > Hall of Horrors > W Wall Inner (Jane's Addiction A… 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sheep Pass Area »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments

More About Sheep Pass Area

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Sheep Pass Area (1,033)

Most Popular · Newest