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Elevation: 4,200 ft 1,280 m
GPS: 33.9986, -116.1448
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Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Sheep Pass is a large, vague area near the southeastern end of the broader Lost Horse Valley (technically, the pass, several miles east of Hidden Valley Campground on the main park road, divides Lost Horse Valley from Queen Valley, and the Sheep Pass group campground lies on the Queen Valley side of the pass, but most of the climbing is on the Lost Horse side of the pass). Incidentally, if you're coming with a group, Sheep Pass is the place to try to get a campsite -- but make your reservations way in advance.

The most prominent formation in the Sheep Pass area is the huge Saddle Rocks, which sit high up on the side of Ryan Mountain (which provides the eastern border of the Lost Horse Valley). Saddle Rocks can be seen from miles away, and their faces contain some of the longest climbs in the park. Other smaller areas in Sheep Pass include Cap Rock, Television Wall, Cowboy Crags, and the Ryan Campground area (notable for some nice bouldering, and of course the aptly-named Headstone Rock).

For a sparse area, however, Sheep Pass has several must-climb classics. Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+) is a classic, slabby 3-pitch ascent up the east face of Saddle Rocks, and the Headstone's SW Corner (5.6) and Cryptic (5.8) are deservedly popular routes to the top of a truly unique formation.

Getting There Suggest change

As noted above, Sheep Pass generally lies on or near the main park road, a few miles east of Hidden Valley Campground. Headstone Rock is best accessed from within Ryan Campground, and turnouts for Saddle Rocks, Cap Rock, and the group campground are clearly signed.

514 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sheep Pass Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1,137
SW Corner
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 481
Right On
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 723
Cryptic
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 586
Walk on the Wild Side
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 288
Nurn's Romp
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 517
Exorcist
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 182
Diamond Dogs
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 122
Dog Day Afternoon
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 50
Space Mountain
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 53
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 434
Heart of Darkness
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 108
Jane's Addiction
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 7
Up 40
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 17
Split Personality
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
The Almighty (aka Mighty High)
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
SW Corner Ryan Campground > Headstone Rock
 1,137
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Right On Saddle Rocks Area > … > (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 481
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Cryptic Ryan Campground > Headstone Rock
 723
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Walk on the Wild Side Saddle Rocks Area > … > (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 586
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Nurn's Romp Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > E Wall Inner (Exorcis…
 288
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Exorcist Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > E Wall Inner (Exorcis…
 517
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Diamond Dogs Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > E Wall, N End (Diamon…
 182
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Dog Day Afternoon Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > S Horror Rock
 122
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Space Mountain Saddle Rocks Area > … > (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 50
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Where Have all the Cowboys… Saddle Rocks Area > … > (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 53
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Heart of Darkness Oyster Bar Area > Conrad Rock > Conrad Rock - Heart o…
 434
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Jane's Addiction Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > W Wall Inner (Jane's…
 108
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Up 40 Cap Rock Area > Top Hat Rock > Molar
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
Split Personality Oyster Bar Area > Asylum > Split Personality Rock
 17
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Almighty (aka Mighty High) Ryan Campground > Manure Pile
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
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