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Routes in East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)

Aero Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Aero TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Buenos Aires T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Casual T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chesire For President T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doin' Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exorcist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hemroidic Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hueco Wall T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaws T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Love Goddess S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Military Industrial Complex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nerd's Rump T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurn's Romp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Que? T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rings Around Uranus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Search for Klingons T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smurf's Up T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
That T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Bolts Closer To Divorce T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trouble With Tribbles, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown 2 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wacko Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
What T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Evans and Mike Raab, November 1974
Page Views: 4,685 total, 25/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This striking crack offers positive jams and excellent gear making it a recommended route of the area. Scramble to the base and climb a flake to a ledge and then up a left-facing corner to reach the crack proper which pulls a small roof on good holds and then continues up a nice hand crack to finish with a lower-angled, slightly wider finish.

The descent can be done by traversing right to anchors atop Exorcist or via a memorable leap across the chasm just left of the climb's finish.

Location

The attractive crack 50' left of Exorcist.

Protection

Gear to 3" with emphasis on hand-sized pieces
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.8
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.8
A very good route. There are two distinct crux moves, both early in the route. The hand crack at the top is cruiser. Oct 18, 2014
Canon  
Very good route. Getting off the deck is the crux. The roof protects well. Dont think I used anything bigger than a #2 Camalot. For the descent, we walked over to the Exorcist bolts and set a TR, then rapped. Piece of cake, and a 60m gets you all the way down to a short, easy scramble. Jan 14, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
The descent from this climb as described in the Vogel guide book is... interesting. The jump shown in the book is about 8 feet. I didn't have the balls.

We discovered a bunch of bail slings on the opposite face of the rock about 20 feet towards the Exorcist that come in handy. The bail slings will take you down to an area you can scramble down from.

This climb has some great moves, especially at the bottom. Highly recommend for the area! Oct 10, 2011
JSH

JSH    
One rope will get you down from the Exorcist anchors, Brian. Apr 28, 2010
Ben H  
I did the jump of death descent option, and miss judged it a bit. I really should have had at least a step or two running start to clear the gap with a better margin. Anyway, a rap off of the Exorcist anchors is very accessible, and while it may not be quit as exciting, its definitely a safer option. Mar 11, 2010
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
What is the length of the Exorcist rappel? Are two ropes needed or can one 60 meter rope do the trick? Apr 14, 2008
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
 
Very fun climb, perhaps thats why there always people climbing it. Feb 27, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.8
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.8
There are basically 4 ways off this thing, and jumping the gap is the last of the 4 I would choose. In order of most preferred:

1. Go right to the Exorcist rap.
2. Go around the left (north) side of the summit blocks past the gap jump and on around to the east face, continue south along the east face for a few feet to where there is a rap station.
3. Go south toward the Exorcist, squeeze through the crack/gap in the summit blocks over to the east face, grovel/crawl back north a bit in a horzontal break to the same rap station in #2 above.
4. Jump the gap o' death.

Fun, solid route. Recommended. Feb 23, 2007
Dietrich Walker
Portland, OR
Dietrich Walker   Portland, OR
amazing route...the leap over the chasm is scary as hell, but totally doable. just don't slip when you make the jump. a great adrenaline rush to finish off a great climb. Feb 23, 2007
Ryan Avery
  5.8-
Ryan Avery  
  5.8-
I have leapt the chasm. Not recommended.

I would say this has maybe two 5.8 moves at the roof and then a rather short 5.6/5.7 crack. Fun route with good moves. Mar 9, 2005
Dynomight510
  5.8
Dynomight510  
  5.8
I found the start to be the crux and involves a series of moves. stemming and face climbing techniques are helpful. The short move right off the ledge to get to the crack is exposed but easier than 5.8. The pro on this section, the traverse, is solid just not in the best position. Sling it well. The crack is stellar and also easier than 5.8.

Good quality and a must do Sep 9, 2003
Climbed this yesterday, 4/27/03. a fun climb with great jams. Apr 28, 2003
Here is the story behind the route name. Mike Raab and I were best friends in High School (Corona Del Mar H.S.) and called each other Nurn. We thought the route was going to be harder than it was, hence, it was a romp! This route was one of our first F.A.'s. Jan 22, 2003
Murf  
The rap from Exorcist leaves you about 100 feet from your packs... Nov 15, 2002