Elevation: 4,300 ft
GPS: 33.9885, -116.1551
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 266,320 total · 1,155/month
Shared By: Mike Morley on Mar 5, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Ryan Campground provides a nice alternative to those wishing to escape the HVCG "scene". The campsites are situated around a large central formation known as The Manure Pile, which, despite its size, has relatively few routes. The main attraction of Ryan is Headstone Rock, which lies just east of the campground. This 50' rock phallus is home of two super classic moderates - the airy SW Corner (5.6) and the steep, well-protected Cryptic (5.8). In addition, the area has some good bouldering. Slightly Ahead of Our Time, freeclimbed by Kevin Powell and Darrel Hensel in 1976, is the first reported 5.12 in the Park.

Getting There

At an elevation of 4,300 feet, Ryan Campground lies 2.3 miles further down the road from Hidden Valley Campground, just past Cap Rock and the turnoff to Key's View. There are 31 sites. Camping is $5 per site per night. There is no water available.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ryan Campground

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 3
The Downclimb
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 72
Barely Crankin'
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 10
Superman Can
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1,016
SW Corner
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 33
Tom Bombadil
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 647
Cryptic
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
The Allen Steck Memorial Route
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 64
South Face Center
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Headstone Crack Right
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Headstone Crack Left
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 43
Decepticon
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
The Three Amigos
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
The Almighty (aka Mighty High)
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Headmaster
TR
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 7
The Cutting Edge
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Downclimb Lost Rocks > Mislaid Rock
 3
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad
Barely Crankin' Manure Pile
 72
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Superman Can Manure Pile
 10
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
SW Corner Headstone Rock
 1,016
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Tom Bombadil Manure Pile
 33
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Cryptic Headstone Rock
 647
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Allen Steck Memorial Route Manure Pile
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
South Face Center Headstone Rock
 64
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Headstone Crack Right Headstone Base Area
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Headstone Crack Left Headstone Base Area
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Decepticon Manure Pile
 43
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Three Amigos Manure Pile
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Almighty (aka Mighty High) Manure Pile
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Headmaster Headstone Rock
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
The Cutting Edge Headstone Rock
 7
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ryan Campground »

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