All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area

Ryan Campground Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Ryan Campground

Headstone Base Area 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Headstone Rock 1 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Lost Rocks 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Manure Pile, The 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Turbo Snail 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

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Elevation:	4,319 ft	1,316 m
GPS:	33.98314, -116.15458 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	267,998 total · 1,016/month
Shared By:	Mike Morley on Mar 5, 2004
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Ryan Campground provides a nice alternative to those wishing to escape the HVCG "scene". The campsites are situated around a large central formation known as The Manure Pile, which, despite its size, has relatively few routes. The main attraction of Ryan is Headstone Rock, which lies just east of the campground. This 50' rock phallus is home of two super classic moderates - the airy SW Corner (5.6) and the steep, well-protected Cryptic (5.8). In addition, the area has some good bouldering. Slightly Ahead of Our Time, freeclimbed by Kevin Powell and Darrel Hensel in 1976, is the first reported 5.12 in the Park.

Getting There

At an elevation of 4,300 feet, Ryan Campground lies 2.3 miles further down the road from Hidden Valley Campground, just past Cap Rock and the turnoff to Key's View. There are 31 sites. Camping is $5 per site per night. There is no water available.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ryan Campground

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 84 ● Barely Crankin' Trad Manure Pile
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 15 ● Superman Can Trad Manure Pile
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 1,208 ● SW Corner Sport Headstone Rock
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 38 ● Tom Bombadil Trad Manure Pile
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 765 ● Cryptic Sport Headstone Rock
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 26 ● The Allen Steck Memorial Route Trad Manure Pile
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 76 ● South Face Center TR Headstone Rock
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 29 ● Headstone Crack Right Trad Headstone Base Area
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 26 ● Headstone Crack Left Trad Headstone Base Area
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 51 ● Decepticon Trad Manure Pile
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 10 ● The Three Amigos Trad Manure Pile
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● The Almighty (aka Mighty High) Trad Manure Pile
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 4 ● Headmaster TR Headstone Rock
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a 8 ● The Cutting Edge AKA Headstone A… Sport Headstone Rock