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Routes in East Wall, North End (Diamond Dogs Area)

Barking Spiders S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bong Along T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Borat TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bunnies TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Diamond Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guardian Angels S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lenore Goldberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lickety Dogs TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Lickety Splits T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
No-Doz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Teen Steam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Uncertainty Principle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zardoz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jim Wilson & Gib Lewis, November 1974
Page Views: 5,654 total, 30/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Undercling/lieback the flake to a stance on the horn, load up some gear (pro to 2.5" works well) and then move up and left across the face to the first bolt (spicy if one considers the fragility of the flake). Continue up the slightly runout face passing one more bolt enroute to the anchors.

Overall the pro is good but spaced and a good outing for a competent leader. Three stars out of five.

Location

Around and right from Lickety Splits on the left side of the west face.

Protection

Gear to 2.5", 2 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all bolts 3/8")
Sean Cooney  
 
I found the undercling and moves up the flake to be straight forward, with easy (but slightly suspect) gear placements. The two-ish moves from the flake to the jug before the first bolt were very uncomfortable for me (in part because of the suspect gear), but still very fun. The rest of the route was run out on easier terrain. 3 stars all the way. Oct 23, 2017
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a PG13
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a PG13
This is a really great climb, only looses a star for not being sustained. The cruxes for me were the start (make sure you wipe your shoes off...), and feeling confident about the gear (it's kind of hard to see your placements on lead, but they actually look pretty good on rap). I felt that if any climb warrants PG-13, this one probably does since you're doing some 10a moves on kind of iffy gear and then you have some very runout 5.8ish above. Gear beta: I brought 1ea 0.5-3 and I was able to stick em all in, if anything just to get them off me. You'd probably be fine with much less, say a 0.75 and a 1 or 2. Mar 1, 2016
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10a PG13
Joe Hunt   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10a PG13
Somehow never got on this one until last weekend. Mega Classic! May 11, 2015
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
Its pretty sick to start out as far left as you can before the cave. Adds a little more burly undercling. The move out of the flake movingout onto the face is not too hard but u have to find the right holdand it makes it anawesome fun move. Nov 23, 2014
David Lyons
Forest Falls, CA
 
David Lyons   Forest Falls, CA
 
such a cool feature that begs to be climbed... no need to place till you're safe up on easy parts of the flake - would pump you out trying anyhow (I know...). Nice one I'd be happy to repeat. Apr 23, 2013
Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
  5.10a PG13
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
  5.10a PG13
This climb is awesome and exciting; was our last climb before driving back to San Francisco and kept me grinning for a few hours. I found a 4" cam useful to protect the undercling moves, but a #3 works too (just further left). Easier to place & slide it up when you're tall, before you even start... crux is definitely moving left after the flake ends, and is safe (piece by your knees). Moves after the first bolt feel R, but probably 5.8 or 5.9 at most, and it eases after that. So memorable! Jun 1, 2011
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
I cannot understand in any way how you could give this an 'R' rating. Oct 20, 2008
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
In January of '86 I was on the way to JT when I rolled my bus outside Glenwood, CO; landed upright in a field. When I got to the tree, I pedaled to the Hall of Horrors, where I onsight soloed Diamond Dogs; obviously I couldn't be killed. Years later, on a trip with my wife, I led it, recalling my earlier ascent and thinking, "you stupid SOB"... Jun 11, 2008
Steve Powell
  5.9+ R
Steve Powell  
  5.9+ R
followed Tony Yeary up this route(thanks Tony).
start is intimidating, but not hard.
crux for me is the leftward traverse move off the flake,
did not think it's 10a, 5.9+ Feb 12, 2008
Tony Yeary
Arcadia, Califoria
Tony Yeary   Arcadia, Califoria  
Just did this route again for the first time in 10 or 15 years. What a great line. I forgot how much fun it is! I'd give 4 out 5 stars. 5.9-10a. Not "R" though. Feb 11, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
Great tip to girth hitch the knob Chris! Did this route yesterday (12/28/07) for the umpteenth time - man it was cold. A couple of my shorter mates had to be very inventive at the crux moves left - so, it's harder for shorties. What a great route!

There's no way the undercling is 5.7!

How many times have I yarded and cranked up that flake to the traverse into the bowl and had to pause to take a deep breath and get my metabolism to slow down so I can pull thin moves off! Dec 29, 2007
Zittydog
Boulder, CO
 
Zittydog   Boulder, CO
 
Love this route. R ain't right, if you can drag your butt through the bottom section you'll be fine for the rest. May 2, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a
After clipping the first bolt, while its not buckets, you're essentially home free. May 2, 2007
ChugachMan
  5.10a
ChugachMan  
  5.10a
It is a serious route, but there is plenty of gear to keep this route from having an "R" rating. Place a piece high in the flake before traversing, and after clipping the first bolt go ahead and sling a knob to keep from falling back on the ledge while moving to the second bolt (as Chris Miller recommends). Lovely route though, and a great lead! Quite the classic mix of powerful lie back and more delicate slab moves! May 2, 2007
Pat W  
Initial section is the definite crux. If you you're nervous on the undercling (expando pro sucks), have a spotter and crash pad. From there, medium/thin cams and nuts in the flake, as well as a cool head up top will get you through. The physical difficulty comes early. Nice, varied, fun route. Jan 27, 2007
Chris Weber
Boulder, CO
Chris Weber   Boulder, CO
I think you could argue that the power lieback is just about as hard as the upper slab moves...once you figure out the sequence (from a good stance), it's not too bad, and the lieback is tough with crappy feet and no pro (it's too low to bother)...

Beta: a .75 works great high in the flake. Apr 6, 2006
Adam Kimmerly
  5.10a
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10a
Excellent route, though I can agree with the "serious" (but not quite R-rated) rating. Place a #1 camalot behind the flake from the horn. A #2 or #3 will fit slightly higher in the flake, but behind a crappier portion of the flake. Look slightly lower than that pod and in to the left and there's a more solid #1 camalot slot. I made one more move to the second horn and blindly placed a second cam just for insurance. The crux for me also was the transition to the slab. Fun and slightly runout slab climbling above. Apr 4, 2005
Bo Johnston  
 
Moving onto the slab from the crack was definitely the crux in my book. I was a little scared there but the route is a beaut! Feb 6, 2005
namascar
  5.10a
namascar  
  5.10a
I can believe that people are not stoke with this one. It is so much fun, and a very interesting feature. The undercling it classic, the transition to the slab excellent, and the run outs are so much Joshua Treeish. Great fun route. Jan 24, 2005
Infernal Doom Fanatic  
  5.10a
I did it on a toprope and found it to be fun, not impossible for a 10a (I've done harder 5.7's in J-Tree).The flake is quite strenuous but positive all the way. The upper 10a face is devious but not difficult. I wouldn't lead it unless you're proficient at leading 10's as the fall factor could render broken bones. Oct 1, 2004
Good route. Aug 28, 2004
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
A sling can be girth-hitched around a knob just after the first bolt if desired to protect moves to the second bolt. Feb 12, 2004
The irony relative to this route is if you can do the "5.7" undercling and layback at the bottom, the 5.10a further up is a snap. Oct 30, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Serious, yes. However, the climbing eases up substantially after exiting the flake, so the runout section isn't 10a. Nov 26, 2002