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Routes in South Horror Rock

Cactus Flower T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dog Day Afternoon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Father Ocean TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flash Gordon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garden Angel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labor Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lazy Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Senior Project T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Guys Gone Nuts, Gone to the Cops TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perhaps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull My Finger, Barbara T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slickery, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This is Only a Test T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trouble Chute TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Houser and Charles Cole, February 1979
Page Views: 3,566 total, 23/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start in the rocky notch between the two towers and climb solid edges on nice brown rock past four bolts to a ledge (3" piece here). One more bolt and some stemming lead to the top and a bolted anchor/rap.

A standout climb of the area that should not be missed. Three stars out of five.

Location

This route climbs to the top of the leftmost tower visible from the road. Directly across from this route is the obvious roof crack of Grit Roof which climbs to the top of the right-hand tower.

Protection

5 bolts to anchor/rap (all 3/8"). Take a 3" piece for the horizontal before the last bolt.

Photos

Gabriella Venus 1  
  5.10c
i bbrought up to a red Camelot because the book said optional medium cam. Found a place for it in some rotten rock and was SO gripped that I strained my shoulder on the following move but was happy not to test the cam. Felt harder than 10b. Jan 14, 2017
dnaiscool  
 
Never do this route without a #2 Camalot...just sayin'... Apr 12, 2015
Rolf Rybak
BC
  5.10b
Rolf Rybak   BC
  5.10b
A JT classic, great protection where you need it. This route has it all , exposure and solid edges. I would bring a 4' runner next time for the #2 and 3 cam to avoid rope drag at the top. I slung all my remaining gear onto a 2' sling and still fought the drag topping out. A 1.5/2/3 cam will give you lots of options at the break. Dec 8, 2014
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b
I agree Mark. I took numbers 2-3 camalot with me the second time I led this back in the day. I'm glad I did, because the transition to the upper part must be made before the clip. Oct 29, 2012
Mark J Gain
  5.10b
Mark J Gain  
  5.10b
I have led this route a few times, never bringing pro "because" it is a "sport climb" from what I read in my guides from the '86 guide that told me "Five bolts protect good, steep face climbing" to my most recent '92 guide, and my buddies in that were all just "bring some draws", "no worries"..., all stating well protected face climb with bolts, but on my excursion today, in very cold finger weather for me and sans lead head, I brought some pro for the horizontal because having led it several times and not having my head in JT sorts... So, I would suggest taking some pro as well if desired (#2 Camalot worked well for me a 3 would be fine too i'm sure) if you do not want to make it into what was for me at a time "no worries" to well I would rather not fail on the transition into the dihedral, it turned out to be much more fun and not an issue, I really like this climb and would suggest it to anyone, but would mention a little gear (2 pieces or so and a longish sling...) might make for a more secure outing, especially when it's COOOOOOLD... JT to do! It is said to bring some "Med Nuts as well in the '97 book of "Classics" Oct 27, 2012
i too left behind the cams. waz not happy for a couple moments b4 commiting Mar 16, 2012
nealg  
Definitely have a fist-size piece or (even a very large nut) to be used at the horizontal b/w bolt 4 and 5. Even without it, you would not deck even if you biffed before getting the 5th bolt clipped.

Great face route and relatively well protected. Mar 28, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Haha, nice Bryan! I didn't bring the #3, but carried a rack of the anodized tri-cams. Doubled them up and extended it. No gear here turns the climb into X rated. Hopefully the guidebook will be updated to include that beta. Mar 2, 2011
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Failing to bring a #3, I found a nice constriction in the horizontal to slot a carabiner behind. Mar 17, 2010
Shipp
laguna beach, ca
  5.10b
Shipp   laguna beach, ca
  5.10b
Great route. Bring a #3 camalot for the 10b (IMO) mantle move or you're risking a 30' grounder. May 25, 2009
JJ Armstrong  
 
The best climb on the formation. I recommend that you should be solid on 5.10b and bring a # 3. Apr 21, 2009
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b
I had nothing for the aforementioned horizontal when I did this route, and had to placate my mind a bit before committing. Fortunately there is nice ledge one can start and restart from before making the mantelish move to the next bolt. Very fun route, and well recommended. Nov 28, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.10b
Bo Johnston  
  5.10b
I was really glad a brought a #3 Camalot for the upper horizontal with a double length sling. The move off the horizonal is nothing to take lightly and the run after the last bolt made me smear carefully and dive for the top! Mar 18, 2005
Really fun route; bolts are where you want them. Be sure to belay from the ground, not the starting boulder. Cold rock in the winter (no direct sun) but sheltered from the wind. Feb 5, 2004