Elevation: 4,330 ft
GPS: 33.984, -116.152 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 202,591 total · 877/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 26, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

The original name given this formation by Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer in 1958 was "The Can Opener." Later, early Wolfe guides called it "Balance Rock." Wolfe changed the name again to "Headstone Rock" since there is some evidence that this name was used before climbers named it (a couple of miners are buried nearby).

Whatever you call it, Headstone is one of the true classic locations at JTree, and home to two of the parks most popular moderate routes: SW Corner (5.6 ***) and Cryptic (5.8 ***). Although the SW Corner offers spectacular exposure (due to the positioning of the rock), both routes are well bolted by JTree standards. In addition to these two routes, the South Face Center goes at 5.9, and there are some bolted 5.reallyhard sport climbs on the blank, overhanging north face of the rock as well.

Quickdraws are all you'll need for protection, although a couple of double-length slings will help for setting a belay on the top of the SW Corner.

Rappel descent from bolts and chains on top of the rock.

Like I said, these routes are POPULAR, so get there early in the morning or climb them late in the evening. But they're well worth it!

Getting There

Park on the east side of the Ryan Campground Loop, next to the bathroom. From there it's an easy 100 yard plus 2 minutes of 3rd class approach (past some kind bouldering, by the way).

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Headstone Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 904
SW Corner
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 566
Cryptic
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 59
South Face Center
TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Headmaster
TR
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
The Cutting Edge
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
SW Corner
 904
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Cryptic
 566
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
South Face Center
 59
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Headmaster
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
The Cutting Edge
 6
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Headstone Rock »

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