Elevation: 4,500 ft
GPS: 33.994, -116.14 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 102,291 total · 461/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 26, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Saddle Rocks, which rise out of the west flank of Ryan Mountain, is probably the largest single formation in the park, and it dominates the view from virtually anywhere in the Lost Horse Valley. It's also home to some of the longest climbs in the park.

* Due to the complex nature of the area it has been broken into three parts - Saddle Rocks - Skirt the lower slabby portion, Saddle Rocks - Pommel the middle portion and Saddle Rocks - Cantle the uppermost portion.

Probably the most notable climb here is the classic Walk on the Wild Side, a three-pitch 5.7+ that ascends the west face of the formation. Right On (3 pitches, 5.5) is also very worthwhile, as are a number of other climbs, ranging from 5.8 on the low end, to far far harder than most of us will ever climb on the high end.

Most routes offer a rap descent, and in some cases a second rope may come in handy.

Getting There

Park on the side of the main park road, between Ryan Campground and Sheep Pass. The parking spot is almost due west of the formation -- you should be looking at it head on. Follow marked Access Fund trails for several hundred yards to the base of Walk on the Wild Side. Traverse to either side of the formation for climbs on the north and south faces.

Parking is also available to the north, near the Ryan Mountain trailhead, but the approach is significantly longer and, due to the topography of the gullies that come off of Ryan Mountain, it is also significantly harder.

49 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Saddle Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 369
Right On
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 474
Walk on the Wild Side
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Orange Flake
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Gaucho Marx
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 9
Us and Them
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Santa Cruz
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Poodlephile
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 8
The Unicorner
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Dial 911
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
The Posse
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
Space Mountain
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
Harley Queen
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 38
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 6
Harlequin
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Right On Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 369
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Walk on the Wild Side Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 474
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Orange Flake Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Gaucho Marx Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Us and Them Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Santa Cruz Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Poodlephile Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Unicorner Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Dial 911 Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Posse Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Space Mountain Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 36
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Harley Queen Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 13
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Where Have all the Cowboys… Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 38
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Harlequin Saddle Rocks -… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Saddle Rocks »

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