All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Saddle Rocks Area

Saddle Rocks Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Saddle Rocks

(a) Saddle Rocks - Skirt 28 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35

(b) Saddle Rocks - Pommel 10 / 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

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Elevation:	4,500 ft	1,372 m
GPS:	33.9942, -116.14 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	147,042 total · 515/month
Shared By:	Brian Reynolds on Jun 26, 2002
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Saddle Rocks, which rise out of the west flank of Ryan Mountain, is probably the largest single formation in the park, and it dominates the view from virtually anywhere in the Lost Horse Valley. It's also home to some of the longest climbs in the park.

Most routes offer a rap descent, and in some cases a second rope may come in handy.

Due to the complex nature of the area it has been broken into three parts - (a) Saddle Rocks - Skirt the lower slabby portion, (b) Saddle Rocks - Pommel the middle portion and (c) Saddle Rocks - Cantle the uppermost portion.

Getting There

Park on the side of the main park road, between Ryan Campground and Sheep Pass. The parking spot is almost due west of the formation -- you should be looking at it head on. Follow marked Access Fund trails for several hundred yards to the base of Walk on the Wild Side. Traverse to either side of the formation for climbs on the north and south faces.

Parking is also available to the north, near the Ryan Mountain trailhead, but the approach is significantly longer and, due to the topography of the gullies that come off of Ryan Mountain, it is also significantly harder.

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Saddle Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 503 ● Right On Trad 4 pitches (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 611 ● Walk on the Wild Side Trad 3 pitches (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 59 ● Orange Flake Trad 2 pitches (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 17 ● Us and Them Trad 2 pitches (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 41 ● Santa Cruz Trad (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Poodlephile Sport (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 13 ● The Unicorner Trad (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 20 ● Dial 911 Trad 2 pitches (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 8 ● Kid Calingula Trad 3 pitches (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 55 ● Space Mountain Trad (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 15 ● Harley Queen Trad 2 pitches (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 58 ● Where Have all the Cowboys Gone Trad 3 pitches (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R 8 ● Harlequin Trad 3 pitches (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R 5 ● A Cheap Way to Die Trad 2 pitches (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 4 ● Iconoclast Sport (a) Saddle Rock… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt…