Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Saddle Rocks

Saddle Rocks - Pommel 10 / 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Saddle Rocks - Cantle 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 5
Saddle Rocks - Skirt 23 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29

Description

Saddle Rocks, which rise out of the west flank of Ryan Mountain, is probably the largest single formation in the park, and it dominates the view from virtually anywhere in the Lost Horse Valley. It's also home to some of the longest climbs in the park. Due to the complex nature of the area it has been broken into three parts - Saddle Rocks - Skirt the lower slabby portion, Saddle Rocks - Pommel the middle portion and Saddle Rocks - Cantle the uppermost portion.

Probably the most notable climb here is the classic Walk on the Wild Side, a three-pitch 5.7+ that ascends the west face of the formation. Right On (3 pitches, 5.5) is also very worthwhile, as are a number of other climbs, ranging from 5.8 on the low end, to far far harder than most of us will ever climb on the high end.

Most routes offer a rap descent, and in some cases a second rope may come in handy.

Getting There

Park on the side of the main park road, between Ryan Campground and Sheep Pass. The parking spot is almost due west of the formation -- you should be looking at it head on. Follow marked Access Fund trails for several hundred yards to the base of Walk on the Wild Side. Traverse to either side of the formation for climbs on the north and south faces.

Parking is also available to the north, near the Ryan Mountain trailhead, but the approach is significantly longer and, due to the topography of the gullies that come off of Ryan Mountain, it is also significantly harder.

49 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Saddle Rocks Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Saddle Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Right On
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk on the Wild Side
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Flake
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gaucho Marx
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Do Rein Me
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Us and Them (aka The Route Formerly K…
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
The Unicorner
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Santa Cruz
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dial 911
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
The Posse
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Mountain
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Harley Queen
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Harlequin
Trad 3 pitches
Right On Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Walk on the Wild Side Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Orange Flake Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Gaucho Marx Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Do Rein Me Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Us and Them (aka The Route… Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
The Unicorner Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (N Face) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Santa Cruz Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Dial 911 Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Posse Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Space Mountain Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (N Face) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Harley Queen Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Where Have all the Cowboys… Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Harlequin Saddle Rocks - Sk… > Saddle Rocks - Skirt (W Face) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Saddle Rocks »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
C Miller   CA  
Sounds like the "Cole-Anderson" & "Dial 911". They're both in the Central JT (green cover) Bartlett guide. Both routes were done by Charles Cole and are some of the last routes he did in JT. Feb 17, 2010
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Anyone know what the routes are between Harlequin and Walk on the Wild Side? There's one that starts just down and right of the direct start "pillar" of Harlequin. It climbs past many bolts and passes the roof to the left to join Harlequin at the top of it's 2nd pitch. Feels 5.10- but I'm sort of terrible at rating slab.

Another route starts just right of that, passing the right corner of the roof to reach a 2-bolt anchor, just a few feet right of Harlequin's 2nd belay. From here, a second pitch leads up and right past 3 bolts and then wanders back left to be linked with the final pitch of Harlequin. Feels 5.8/5.9

I think I saw another bolt line to the right of that one, but I may have just been looking at Walk on the Wild Side since that first pitch wanders so far out left at the start.

Thanks to whoever put these routes up, they are enjoyable, long, and well-protected. Feb 17, 2010

More About Saddle Rocks

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Saddle Rocks (131)

Most Popular · Newest