Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: FA Todd Gordon, Frazier Haney
Page Views: 4,141 total · 17/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

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Description Suggest change

Identical start as for Where Have All the Cowboys Gone (5.10d). Start 30 feet down from the Iconoclast arete, high on the left side of Saddle Rocks. A bolt and gear protect to a belay anchor. Continue up and right past bolt protected climbing. Listed as the dreaded "5.8+" grade elsewhere, this climb has a short, well-protected crux.

Best done as a single pitch; if the first anchor is clipped extend it to avoid rope drag. I suggest climbing this, rapping to the anchor and doing the second pitch of Where Have All The Cowboys Gone.

Protection Suggest change

A few pieces in the medium range, including a few nuts, will add some comfort on the first section. Mostly bolt protected.

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