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> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Saddle Rocks Area
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> Saddle Rocks - Skirt…
Santa Cruz
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 42
votes
Early Access
Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)
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A Cheap Way to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Calamity Jane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cole-Anderson S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cowgirl in the Sand T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dial 911 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Do Rein Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gaucho Marx T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hanna Montana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Harlequin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Harley Queen T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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If You see Crow, Bark! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Kid Calingula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lone Pine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Marlboro Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Other Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Posse, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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R&R Revamped T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Rough Riders T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Santa Cruz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Silver Spur T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Six Shooter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Us and Them T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Walk on the Wild Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Western Roll T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Write In TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 33.99445, -116.14002 |
| FA: | Todd Gordon and Frazier Haney |
| Page Views: | 4,369 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Access Issue: Temporary Closure
Details
Saddle Rocks chimney routes, including but not limited to Right On, Orange Flake, Kid Caligula. This area is closed through June 2026 to protect nesting birds.
Source: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Source: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Identical start as for Where Have All the Cowboys Gone (5.10d). Start 30 feet down from the Iconoclast arete, high on the left side of Saddle Rocks. A bolt and gear protect to a belay anchor. Continue up and right past bolt protected climbing. Listed as the dreaded "5.8+" grade elsewhere, this climb has a short, well-protected crux.
Best done as a single pitch; if the first anchor is clipped extend it to avoid rope drag. I suggest climbing this, rapping to the anchor and doing the second pitch of Where Have All The Cowboys Gone.
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