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Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)

Cheap Way to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Cole-Anderson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dial 911 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Do Rein Me T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gaucho Marx T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanna Montana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harlequin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Harley Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If You see Crow, Bark! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Kid Calingula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Posse, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
R&R Revamped T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Santa Cruz T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silver Spur T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Shooter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Us and Them (aka The Route Formerly Known as Negro Girls) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Walk on the Wild Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Write In TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA Todd Gordon, Frazier Haney
Page Views: 2,333 total, 15/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Identical start as for Where Have All the Cowboys Gone (5.10d). Start 30 feet down from the Iconoclast arete, high on the left side of Saddle Rocks. A bolt and gear protect to a belay anchor. Continue up and right past bolt protected climbing. Listed as the dreaded "5.8+" grade elsewhere, this climb has a short, well-protected crux.

Best done as a single pitch; if the first anchor is clipped extend it to avoid rope drag. I suggest climbing this, rapping to the anchor and doing the second pitch of Where Have All The Cowboys Gone.

Protection

A few pieces in the medium range, including a few nuts, will add some comfort on the first section. Mostly bolt protected.
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10a
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10a
As Susan said, that line directly above the 1st pitch anchor is fun, easy climbing on very featured rock. Maybe 5.5 or 5.6? But pretty cool. We TRd it after doing Santa Cruz, but it could be led safely with a few pieces and tie offs.

Santa Cruz itself was pretty nice, bullet rock with good exposure. Nov 28, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Fun first pitch takes good pro at the crack then basically run it to the anchors on low angle well featured rock.

As for Santa Cruz, unlike what hard-man Dan here stated ;0 it's seemed tougher than .8 or even .9 to me. I actually commented to my partner that if that was .9 we may have problems doing 'where have all the cowboys gone'. For me it was in the .10 range. Also as an added bonus ran up the well featured rock directly off the 1st pitch anchor to the top. I'm sure you could lead it with some slung chicken-heads but we did it on TR.

Disappointed that we didn't do the 3rd pitch. Came down to tackle the main objective WHATCG. At the time was thinking we would need to summit and rap off the back where after topping out on WHATCG it seems we could have shimmied down to that anchor. Nov 27, 2011
Bob Gaines
  5.9
Bob Gaines  
  5.9
For a great 3-pitch moderate, climb pitch one of Where Have all the Cowboys Gone Cowboys (5.8), then Santa Cruz (5.9) for your second pitch, then straight up the obvious finger/hand crack of The Exhibitionist (5.9) for pitch 3.

You can down-climb a bit and rap from the Cowboys top anchor, or just climb up to the top and rap down the backside. Feb 7, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9+
A fine route if in the area to do Where Have All The Cowboys Gone (10d), but I wouldn't hike all the way up for this route. Rap down to the Cowboys anchor and fire that one next! Apr 26, 2008
Tan Slacks
Joshua tree
  5.9
Tan Slacks   Joshua tree
  5.9
Have to say this was pretty fun. The first pitch of "...cowboys..." goes pretty easy and then The fun stuff. Up and right of the rap bolts, turn an overhang with HUGE holds and follow the bolts. Was able to put some pieces in to make the overhang move. Great views and exposure. 5.8+/5.9 you pick Jun 1, 2006
Steven Powers
  5.9
Steven Powers  
  5.9
this is a great moderate climb, Frazier Haney was attending Santa Cruz university when he and todd put this climb up, thus it got its name. i would give this climb 3 outta 5 stars. i would rate it 5.9, probably not 10a. May 25, 2005