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Orange Flake
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 4,424 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Joe Keyser on Sep 9, 2006 |
Admins: | C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Two nice long pitches. First pitch climbs up to a bolt, then traverses up and right on face to another bolt, and to the "orange flake". You can place a small piece or two in this feature. The pitch then continues traversing up and right past another bolt or two to a corner crack system. Climb the crack system, traverse about 15-20 feet back left, and set a belay at the base of the crack system seen from the road. The second pitch climbs this long crack pitch, and contains some nice cracks, OW's and chimney moves.
One single rope rap off the back side gets you down.
One single rope rap off the back side gets you down.
Oakland, CA
Costa Mesa, CA
knowing this thing has a lot of OW, i brought some big cams. but excellent small cam placements can be found in the back of the crack and i wouldn't recommend taking anything bigger than a number 3 black diamond.
also, i thought this was a much better climb than "right on". not sure why people think that choss pile is so classic and this thing is sub-par. i think the line is more aesthetic, the slab is longer, and the experience was more fun. Feb 22, 2014