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Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)

Cheap Way to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Cole-Anderson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dial 911 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Do Rein Me T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gaucho Marx T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanna Montana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harlequin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Harley Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If You see Crow, Bark! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Kid Calingula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Posse, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
R&R Revamped T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Santa Cruz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver Spur T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Shooter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Us and Them T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Walk on the Wild Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Write In TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Wilson and Tobin Sorenson, November 1974
Page Views: 2,194 total · 15/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin by scrambling (class 4) up a low-angle right-facing corner about 75 Ft. right of the start of Right On, up to a big ledge. High Cost of Living, Cheap Way To Die, Lone Pine,and Rough Riders all start from this ledge.

Pitch 1:Walk right across this ledge to where it becomes more like a ramp, leading up and right and then blanking out. Continue right across a slab past 2 bolts (5.8) to a belay on a small ledge with 2 bolts. An alternative start is to climb the left-facing dihedral (5.7) that leads directly up to this same bolt-belay on top of pitch 1.

Pitch 2: Up an easy flake/crack to a bolt, then climb steep slab (5.10d R) to another bolt, then traverse right and up to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge/block.

Pitch 3:
Lower-angled friction slab past 2 bolts (5.10b), then, a long, easy runnout to join Walk On The Wild Side at it's 2nd pitch.

Protection

To 2 inches, bolts.

Photos

Bob Gaines  
 
At least one leader has broken an ankle as a result of the fall from the runout on the 2nd pitch. Jan 13, 2007
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The first time I attempted this was last February I think. It was bitter cold in the shade. I took a fall just before the P2 crux because my shoe rubber was too cold and stiff to smear. I came back to it in April and got the redpoint. Pitch 2 is sort of heads-up, but I don't think I'd give it an R rating. Pitch 3 however, is technically easier but also more runout and less secure in a gritty kind of way. Oct 18, 2009
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
Anyone know what the route is that traverses right from the ledge atop pitch 1? It goes right two bolts and then up a few more. It was a fun line! Feb 26, 2011
Randy  
Anyone know what the route is that traverses right from the ledge atop pitch 1? It goes right two bolts and then up a few more. It was a fun line!

Harley Queen 5.10d and excellent. Feb 28, 2011
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
Hmmm, thanks for the beta Randy but I don't think that's it. I've drawn a rough topo of it here: Mystery Harley Route

This route traversed way right right past the diagonal crack from the belay ledge and then past two decently spaced bolts before going up. We saw the bolts for Harlequin and Harley Queen, but for some reason elected to go this way. We thought the climbing felt about 5.10a, but I seem to have trouble guessing grades on slab routes, and I'd believe anything from 5.9 to 5.10b.

My friend and I forgot our guidebooks and decided to just go have an adventure on a mystery slab route out there. Turns out that it really is a mystery as I can't find referrence to the route on the internet or in the guidebook (granted it's an older guide). It was a fun route and I'd like to figure out what it was.

Thanks,
Cory Feb 28, 2011
Bob Gaines  
 
Hi Cory:

There are two routes between Harlequin and Walk On the Wild Side.

They actually both start from the very bottom of the slab. The route on the left has 7 bolts and goes up to the anchor at the top of Harlequin's second pitch. I don't know the name of this one, but I'd rate it 5.10c.

The route just to the right has 9 bolts up to a separate 2-bolt anchor. I'd rate this pitch 5.10b. It continues up for a second pitch. I believe this route is named "Dial 911", first ascent by Charles Cole and Troy Mayr. There is a bolt on the big ledge at the base so you can lower/rappel down into a chasm to start.

Looking at your topo I'm guessing you crossed over the left route onto Dial 911 and finished up that route.

What would you rate that second pitch? Mar 1, 2011
C Miller   CA  
The climb left of Dial 911 is the Cole-Anderson Route (5.10a). Mar 1, 2011
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
Thanks for the beta! The climb we did definitely went to a separate anchor from harlequin, so it sounds like we traversed into "dial 911" the crux seemed to be at the end of the traverse, getting to the second bolt, maybe 5.10a or b? Then it was still sustained for a few bolts up to the anchor. The third pitch was steeper but a tad easier due to some features, the moves passing he first bolt were really fun. We actually did a very easy 4th pitch as well.

Cheers,
Cory Mar 2, 2011

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