Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Taylor, William Taylor & Mike Broderick, 1992
Page Views: 2,401 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jan 17, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start right of Walk On The Wild Side and just right of Us and Them.

Pitch 1) 5.10b R/X - Climb 20 feet up to the first bolt, clip the bolt and traverse left to second bolt. Clip the second bolt and run it out to the third bolt at a bulge. Mantle over the bulge and run it out at least 30 feet to the fourth bolt. A fall from this section (before the fourth bolt) would surely be life threatening. Clip the fourth bolt and make a hard move to the right reaching the fifth bolt. Crank over the bulge and reach the anchor.

Pitch 2) 5.10a R - Climb up and a little left of the anchor. Run it out 30-35 feet to the first bolt. Clip the bolt and head right up to second bolt. Big fall potential if blow any of the clips. Angle a little right and then straight up to a two-bolt anchor. Rap or follow the third pitch of "Walk on the Wild Side" to the top and walk off.

Essentially a more runout variation to the first pitch of the route Negro Girls; the second pitch is the same as that route.

Protection

P1) 5 bolts to bolted anchor/rap, P2) 2 bolts to bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Did the first pitch of this one thinking I was on Walk on the wild side. Never going to do it again unless I have a death wish. If you fell before clipping any of the bolts you would certainly go to the hospital. The worst part is right before the 4th bolt because it is both scary and difficult. That bolt is also the only one on the route that is a small button head not something that i would want to take a fall onto. Jul 9, 2013
R Sather
COLORADO
 
R Sather   COLORADO
 
Made the same mistake of thinking this route was Walk on the Wild Side(guess you go more left?), so keep that in mind if you don't want to open up a can of worms. Couldn't help but wonder why this climb wasn't cleaner when it was supposed to be so popular, but upon reading the description it is a lot clearer what route I was on. This thing was run out, dirty, and a mental battle. Regardless this route was a rewarding lead and I probably wouldn't have gone for it if I knew the grade. Only did the first pitch. My girlfriend was not a fan (maybe having expectations of 5.8 climbing). Going to the fourth bolt was heady, would have been a horrible fall, and was foot intensive. The button was nice and rusty! Foot work makes it go! Dec 13, 2013
C Miller   CA  
The start of Walk on the Wild Side is from the highpoint of the blocks stacked against the face. Dec 16, 2013
Vit
Vit  
Same here - was planning to do Walk on the Wild Side and unwittingly ended up on this. Seems like I clipped a bolt or two from Negro Girl just to the left (6 clips total, with bad rope drag), but did end the pitch at the anchor for this route, just above the overhang / bulge. R/X rating is right. I am pretty sure a botched clip at the second bolt would result in hitting the deck. Some sketchy flakes above the second bolt (don't yard on - about to go down) and gritty rock throughout. I counted 3 spinning bolts, one of them a nasty rattly 1/4in buttonhead. Jan 30, 2014
Joshua Munoz
Honolulu, HI
 
Joshua Munoz   Honolulu, HI
 
Did exactly the thing other people did. Climbed this route thinking it was Walk on the Wild Side. We just free soloed up to the peak and rapped off the back side. Mar 21, 2016
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.10b X
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.10b X
Same mistake as others. Forgot that the Miramontes book is a select and just hopped on the right-most climb on the wall thinking it was Walk on the Wild Side. First climb of the trip/season so I then continued to think that I was rusty and just kept climbing. Terrified of falling at multiple points, especially around the 4th bolt of P1, way above the lip.

Still continued up the second pitch despite the terror induced on P1, thinking it would be a grade easier. Hardest move on the climb probably came right off the belay on P2 before the first bolt. Loooong run-out to the second bolt...which of course is a buttonhead with an old SMC hanger.

Did some great classics later on in the trip and this climb is the most memorable for me. Happy to escape the unintentional X route unscathed. Tick that one off the list! Mar 31, 2016
Todd Martin
Costa Mesa
 
Todd Martin   Costa Mesa
 
Ditto the "mistake" of assuming this was WWS according to the Miramontes book. Since the guidebook gives a decent description of the WWS P1 anchor location, we ended up there after, if my memory is serving me well, 5 bolts. The bolts on the line we took looked new, so guessing they've been replaced recently. However, we could see rusty chains 20' right of us which is probably the P1 anchor for this route. The line we took was fun and challenging (maybe 5.9). "Sketchy flakes" above the second bolt are intact but still sketchy. We came into the WWS anchor alcove from the right and there were a couple thin balancy moves. Really need an updated topo of this side of the West Face. Only way I figured we were on this route was John's photo here. Otherwise, I thought we were on Us and Them. Oct 29, 2018