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Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)

Cheap Way to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Cole-Anderson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dial 911 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Do Rein Me T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gaucho Marx T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanna Montana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harlequin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Harley Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If You see Crow, Bark! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Kid Calingula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Posse, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
R&R Revamped T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Santa Cruz T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silver Spur T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Shooter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Us and Them (aka The Route Formerly Known as Negro Girls) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Walk on the Wild Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Write In TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Todd & Donette Swain
Page Views: 716 total, 12/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Nov 16, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start about 15+ feet up and left of Right On below a water groove. Follow the water groove past 7 bolts more or less directly up toward the long crack system that is just left of Right On (this crack system comprises the upper pitches of Orange Flake).

At the bottom of the crack you'll find a stance with an old, rusty bolt (the belay bolt for P1 of Orange Flake). Go up the wide crack above the rusty bolt about ten feet (red Camalot) then go down and left past a cold shut to a ledge with a 2 bolt communal anchor.

A second pitch has been top roped climbing directly up the slabby face above the cold shut and to the left of the upper Orange Flake crack (5.10).

Location

Start about 15+ feet left of Right On below a water groove.

Protection

Rappel from the communal anchor with one rope.

Photos

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Murf's description is right. There are only 6 bolts and 1 rusty 1/4incher, not the 8 mentioned in the Miramontes Guidebook. Miramontes also labels this a sport route which it is clearly not, the runout to the anchor is long and would be bad if you fell. Nov 13, 2016
Murf  
I can be so bold as to correct both the first ascentionist and the guidebook author....

The route does climb the right hand of two long water streaks, just left of Right On. I felt the crux was just past the first bolt, with another thoughtful part at bolts 4 and 5. At that point you make your way level with the first belay of Right On and move left to first belay of Orange Flake ( currently a rusty 1/4" bolt and a fixed stopper ). The bolt anchor is still at least 20" or more above and left at this point. Either slab out onto the scrappy face and work your way up and left (not recommended), or continue up the chimneyish crack of Orange Flake. Its pretty easy, but you could place gear if you were so inclined. Just under the level of the cold shut of P2 of Kid Calingula, work left, clipping that bolt (marked in Classic Joshua Tree Routes and Bouldering), and then moving a bit down and left to the anchor. Mar 22, 2015
Randy
 
Randy  
 
If I might presume to out-guess the first ascentionist, I believe this route is Do Rein Me. *

It actually starts about 15+ feet left of Right On and follows a water groove past 7 bolts more or less directly up toward the long left crack system (which is followed by the upper pitches of Orange Flake). Move left near the bottom of the crack, passing an 8th and last bolt, then traverse directly left to a 2 bolt anchor (85+ foot rappel from here).

FA: Todd Swain, Donette Swain, June, 2004.

  • (The Gaucho Marx description seems to describe this route, but that isn't correct -- Gaucho Marx begins further left -- actually climbing directly up to a passing over the Orange Flake feature. See comments for that route.)
Nov 18, 2012