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Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)

Cheap Way to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Cole-Anderson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dial 911 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Do Rein Me T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gaucho Marx T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanna Montana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harlequin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Harley Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If You see Crow, Bark! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Kid Calingula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Posse, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
R&R Revamped T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Santa Cruz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver Spur T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Shooter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Us and Them (aka The Route Formerly Known as Negro Girls) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Walk on the Wild Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Write In TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines & Tony Sartin, February 2005
Page Views: 2,498 total · 15/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 31, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is a variation to Bosch Job. Pitches 1 and 2 follow Bosch Job and the 3rd pitch climbs up and left where Bosch Job moves right.

Begin by scrambling up a low-angle slab (at a right-facing corner) to a big ledge about 75 ft. right from the start of Right On. Pitch 1: Go left around the corner, then up a low-angle slab (5.5) to a belay at a small ledge with a block. Pitch 2 (10a): Up steepening face to a bolt, move left to a thin flake which leads to a small left-facing corner. Follow this over a roof, then step right to a 2 bolt hanging belay. Pitch 3 (5.12): Climb past the first 3 bolts of Bosch Job (11+) (Bosch Job traverses about 20 ft. right at this point) then up and left on the blunt "arete" past 9 more bolts to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. This pitch is VERY sustained, with 5.11 moves at each of the first 7 bolts. Rap the route with 2 ropes.

Note on the rating: I pinkpointed pitch 3, in ideal conditions, with quickdraws hanging and tick marks on all the crux holds, after about 5 days of effort over 2 years, and it felt like about 5.12a/b. To onsight this one might be more like 12c/d? No matter what the rating, this route has some excellent rock quality, and achieves a fairly spectacular position on one of the steepest section's of Saddle Rock's main face.

Protection

12 quickdraws, pro: thin to 3 inches.

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