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Silver Spur
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)
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A Cheap Way to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Calamity Jane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cole-Anderson S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cowgirl in the Sand T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dial 911 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Do Rein Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gaucho Marx T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hanna Montana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Harlequin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Harley Queen T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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If You see Crow, Bark! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Kid Calingula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lone Pine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Marlboro Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Other Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Posse, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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R&R Revamped T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Rough Riders T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Santa Cruz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Silver Spur T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Six Shooter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Us and Them T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Walk on the Wild Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Write In TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 33.99446, -116.14002 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines & Tony Sartin, February 2005 |
| Page Views: | 4,607 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Jan 31, 2005 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is a variation to Bosch Job. Pitches 1 and 2 follow Bosch Job and the 3rd pitch climbs up and left where Bosch Job moves right.
Begin by scrambling up a low-angle slab (at a right-facing corner) to a big ledge about 75 ft. right from the start of Right On.
Pitch 1: Go left around the corner, then up a low-angle slab (5.5) to a belay at a small ledge with a block.
Pitch 2 (10a): Up steepening face to a bolt, move left to a thin flake which leads to a small left-facing corner. Follow this over a roof, then step right to a 2-bolt hanging belay.
Pitch 3 (5.12; 12 bolts): Climb past the first 3 bolts of Bosch Job (11+) (Bosch Job traverses about 20 ft. right at this point) then up and left on the blunt "arete" past 9 more bolts to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. This pitch is very sustained, with 5.11 moves at each of the first 7 bolts. Rap the route with 2 ropes.
Note on the rating: I redpointed pitch 3, in ideal conditions, with quickdraws hanging and tick marks on all the crux holds, after about 5 days of effort over 2 years, and it felt like about 5.12a/b. To onsight this one might be more like 12c/d? No matter the rating, this route has some excellent rock quality, and achieves a fairly spectacular position on one of the steepest sections of Saddle Rock's main face.
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