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A Cheap Way to Die
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)
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A Cheap Way to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Calamity Jane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cole-Anderson S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cowgirl in the Sand T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dial 911 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Do Rein Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gaucho Marx T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hanna Montana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Harlequin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Harley Queen T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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If You see Crow, Bark! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Kid Calingula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lone Pine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Marlboro Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Other Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Posse, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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R&R Revamped T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Rough Riders T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Santa Cruz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Silver Spur T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Six Shooter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Us and Them T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Walk on the Wild Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Write In TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 33.99445, -116.14002 |
| FA: | Charles Cole, Gib Lewis, Herb Laeger, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,754 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Hunt on Mar 30, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Access Issue: Temporary Closure
Details
Source: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
I did a search for this route on MP and could not find it, I did this route in 1992, so here goes.
The crux is right off the ground with two bolts (I only recall two down low, not like the new Miramontes book showing three) protecting 10d edging. After moving through the crux I went pretty much straight up to a little roof. The climbing past the crux and before the roof wasn't attention grabbing (maybe 5.9). What was attention grabbing in 92' was that all the bolts shown in the purple Vogel guide from 86' and the new Miramontes guide (both show four bolts after the low crux) were not there... just a couple of rusty 1/4" stems and a couple of holes. I got a wired nut over one stem and that was it until the roof. The roof protected with a #2 camalot in a gravel-y undercling. The roof turns on a 10.b sloper arch that resides just above the roof. You work your hands across it as you get your right foot up. There was a two 1/4" bolt anchor there just above the roof. The topo from the old purple Vogel guide shows the route more accurately, IMO, than the Miramontes bolt locations on the picture in that guide book. But, my memory of this is 23 years old. I did do it a few times, though.
The second pitch was old school bolted 10a face climbing to the crack/ramp that meets up with WOTWS. Falls on this climb for the leader, just about anywhere but the crux, would have resulted in badness when I did it. And, in the new Miramontes book it still shows an R rating even while showing all those supposedly Charles Cole original bolts back in place. Anyway, great first pitch (micro edging to mini roof) awesome location, and multipitch, make this one of my favorite Joshua Tree routes. Surprised not to see it here on Mountain Project.
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