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Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)

Cheap Way to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Cole-Anderson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dial 911 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Do Rein Me T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gaucho Marx T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanna Montana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harlequin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Harley Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If You see Crow, Bark! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Kid Calingula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Posse, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
R&R Revamped T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Santa Cruz T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silver Spur T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Shooter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Us and Them (aka The Route Formerly Known as Negro Girls) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Walk on the Wild Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Write In TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines, Tony Sartin, and Tony Grice, November 2006
Page Views: 2,362 total, 18/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin by scrambling (class 4) up a low-angle right-facing corner about 75 Ft. right of the start of Right On, up to a big ledge. High Cost of Living, Cheap Way To Die, Lone Pine, Rough Riders, and Harlequin all start from this ledge.

Pitch 1:(Same as Harlequin) Walk right across this ledge to where it becomes more like a ramp, leading up and right and then blanking out. Continue right across a slab past 2 bolts (5.8) to the top of a left-facing corner. Belay on a small ledge with 2 bolts.

An alternative direct start is to climb the left-facing dihedral (5.7) up to the bolt-belay on top of pitch 1.

Pitch 2: Climb up and left on steepening slab to vertical face climbing. 7 bolts to a 2-bolt belay/rap anchor. 100 Ft.

Protection

Bolts
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
This route is 5.11-.......I failed to finish the first pitch;.....got two bolts from top, and was too pooped out......maybe a route for someone younger than I........best I head back over to Santa Cruz for another lap on something I can actually lead...... May 18, 2011
Murf
  5.10d
Murf  
  5.10d
More sustained than Where Have all the Cowboys Gone, letter grades harder than Sig Alert (aka Cast Up a Highway), also think its harder and more than sustained than The Decompensator of Lhasa. As Andy mentions the route finding is technical. I have no choice but to rate it 5.9+. Jan 11, 2010
Randy
  5.10d
Randy  
  5.10d
Perhaps being an aging has-been contributed to the feeling this route harder than others have suggested. A great route that is sustained and has No offending easy sections. Three + of five stars.

Edited: Thanks Bob. Teach me to not post from my phone. Jan 10, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b/c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b/c
Wickedly sustained, technical route finding, and excellent climbing. Get on this one... but get your game on, as it stays at you from the moment you leave the belay! The route is still cleaning up a bit, and the occasional grainy smear ups the ante a bit... and may have contributed to the "sustained" feeling.

This route is safely bolted (but see notes below on Harlequin's P1), though you'll pause a few times while pulling some "mantle-ish" moves a touch above the bolts.

Not being familiar with Harlequin, this route took me a bit to find. To locate it, head towards to lowest point on the main face of Saddle Rocks. You are probably 75' right of "Right On", and 150-200' left of Walk on the Wild side. You don't need to scramble to the top of any of the huge, obvious ledges to the left of Walk on the Wild Side.

A low angle 4th class section (40') heads to big ledge, and then a long - mostly horizontal - ramp system goes to the right about 80'. This is described above, but was much more traversing than I expected - it is basically horizontal. There is a little tree growing out half way that serves as the best landmark. The ramp ends with two bolts that lead right to the top of a corner system and the anchor. There are some other bolts visible on the ramp system, but you can't reach them from the ramp.

P1 (Harlequin's original pitch) is fine on lead, but pretty damn scary for the second. When they unclip the last bolt, they are facing a 20+' pendulum into a wall. The climbing is only 5.8, but it is very insecure - stick-to-what type of climbing. Do not take an insecure second on this pitch (do the direct start described above instead). My second ended up putting a cordellete through the last bolt hanger, made some moves, and then pulled one side of the cordellete through. Not pretty, but safe for her.

P2 begins directly above the anchor, and then follows a line of bolts up and left and then straight up over the headwall. Be open minded with the route finding... as it is easy to get suckered the wrong way - particularly getting to and past the first bolt. This pitch is harder than it looks and is super fun!

Two raps gain the big ledge below, and then you can scramble back to your packs. Nov 25, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Shweet route, guys! Maybe next time I'll pull that first crux and actually get the tick! TG - didn't you say you guys had plans for subsequent pitches? Apr 8, 2007
Bob Gaines  
 
More sustained and better protected than the nearby Harlequin. Maybe three out of five stars. Jan 13, 2007